ATRIO Door Sign by Susan Manlin Katzman

Atrio is one of the main reasons to visit Cáceres. Actually, Atrio is one of the main reasons to visit Spain. The two-Michelin-starred restaurant and Relais & Châteaux hotel is worth not only a detour (in Michelin speak), but also a bucket-list trip—at least for lovers of food, wine and architecture.
Atrio sits in the sparsely populated Extremadura region of western central Spain, within the ancient walled-center of Cáceres, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Views of Caceres from Atrio

Views of Caceres from Atrio

The property manages to perfectly fit into its surroundings of medieval monasteries, churches, palaces and towers, while being thoroughly, beautifully, divinely contemporary in both architecture and food.

Emilio Tuñón Álvarez in his garden.

Toño Pérez in his garden.

Owners, chef Juan Antonio (Toño) Pérez and his partner, maître d’ and sommelier José Polo, teamed with architects Luis Moreno Mansilla and Emilio Tuñón Álvarez to create a unique space within ancient buildings once used as a palace’s servants’ quarters.
While respecting the integrity of the historic exterior, the architects filled the interior with minimalist modern excitement.

Atrio in Spanish means atrium and the interior utilizes a garden area to create a metaphorical atrium. A dramatic collection of white, dark and natural wood columns provides not only a unifying flow between different spaces, but also a filter for natural daylight which artistically and unevenly streams onto highly polished, shining surfaces of floors and walls, bathing the property in an ever-changing shimmering glow.

Atrio Design Inside and Out by Susan Manlin Katzman


As spiraled as a nautilus shell, Atiro’s wine cellar and tasting room occupies the lower level. Named one of the restaurant world’s best by Wine Spectator, the cellar holds a star-studded, decades-spanning collection of superstars, including vintages of Chateau d’Yquem dating from 1806. Atrio’s wine list comes in the form of a thick, 400-page, hardbound book.

Atrio's Wine Cellar by Susan Manlin Katzman


A terrace with two pools and 14 guest rooms, each different and each sleekly comfortable, fill the upper level of the property.

Guest room at Atrio by Susan Manlin Katzman


Atiro’s architecture, wine and guest rooms attract tourists, but it is the food that draws gourmets from around the world and the food that greatly contributed to Cáceres winning title of Spain’s Culinary Capital for 2015.
Food magic happens on the main floor which holds the reception entrance, a patio garden (perfect for a perfect breakfast on a lovely day), the large open kitchen and the dining tables, which can seat up to 50.

Dining Tables at Atrio by Susan Manllin Katzman
From Ferran AdriaFerran Adrià, a great Spanish chef who created the experimental restaurant El Bulli, once wrote about the evolution of creative cooking. He places reproducing recipes previously created at the bottom of the creative pyramid and technical-conceptual creativity at the top.

Chef Toño’s food sits at the pinnacle, uniquely intermingling (like the building itself) the classic with the contemporary, the worldly with the local, and the extravagant with the affordable (109€ to 115€ for a tasting menu).
Whereas other modern experimental efforts might try too hard and put construction over taste, Toño’s creations are innovative and beautiful as well as delicious. That doesn’t mean the dishes can be described in ordinary terms—not even by the restaurant. The English menu descriptions waiver between dramatically simplified, tongue-in-cheek and just plain plain. For example, following are dishes on a tasting menu with restaurant descriptions:

CUCUMBER Open ravioli, green apple, herring and celery

Open ravioli, green apple, herring and celery


FAKE PEAS Crispy pork and peas cream

Crispy pork and peas cream


BLOODY MARY Frozen tomato and green onion ice cream

Frozen tomato and green onion ice cream


MARINATED SHRIMPS Stem salad and sour cream

Stem salad and sour cream


RISOTTO Mushrooms with pig’s trotters paper

Mushrooms with pig’s trotters paper


CRAWFISH in green, seaweed bread and solidify olive oil

in green, seaweed bread and solidify olive oil


RED PRAWN Corn and Iberian pork

Corn and Iberian pork


ROASTED SUCKING GOAT Traditional style

Traditional style


TORTA DEL CASAR  In both textures with quince jam and spicy oil

In both textures with quince jam and spicy oil


YOLK CREAM Yoghourt ice cream and cocoa ground

Yoghourt ice cream and cocoa ground


THE CHERRY, which is not a cherry

THE CHERRY, which is not a cherry

Other food treats associated with the menu include: Beet macarons served before the meal began and and a variety of sweets including fabulous lemon macaroons and fight-over chocolate truffles served to finish the feast.

Beet Macaroons

Beet Macarons


Assorted Sweets

Assorted Sweets

Guests leaving Atrio, are encouraged to take a handful of house-made miniature caramels sitting on a tray at the door. (First time in my life I was sorry I didn’t have huge, super-size, gigantic man’s hands.)

Atrio's Caramels

Atrio’s Caramels

For more information about Cáceres, click HERE.

For more information about Atrio, click HERE.






The food of Cáceres rocks! The restaurants are rad! The take-home edible souvenirs are wicked and wow! No wonder a jury composed of top representatives from Spain’s hotel, restaurant and publishing industries, declared the city “The Culinary Capital of Spain, 2015.”
Where-is-Caceres-on-map-of-SpainThe city, in the province of the same name, sits in the sparsely populated Extremadura region of western central Spain, about 186 miles from Madrid and 137 miles from Portugal. Despite having a UNESCO World Heritage Site walled city center that is so little changed from medieval times that the town serves as movie set, Cáceres was off the tourist radar.

Caceres 4

But now declared the the epicenter of Spanish food, the city lures foodies from around the world and no one leaves disappointed.
Cáceres won the title of Culinary Capital based on a rigid set of criteria including:
1. The luscious local products—eight wearing Denomination of Origin (D.O.) and Protected Designations of Origin (P.D.O.) certifications.

2. The fine chefs. (According to one tourism official, Cáceres, population 95,855, contains about 250 restaurants serving dishes ranging from Spanish classics to the uniquely avant-garde.)

Tono Perez in his garden at Atrio Restaurante and Ivan Hernandez at his cooking show room in Restaurante Cayena. Photo by Susan Manlin Katzman

Tono Perez in his garden at Atrio Restaurante and Ivan Hernandez in his cooking show room at Restaurante Cayena.

3. The plethora of traditional dishes—some classically Spanish and others representing a fusion influenced by Portuguese neighbors as well as historic Roman, Arab, and Jewish cultures that flourished in the city.)

Tapas with Iberia ham, pork carpaccio, lamb stew and luscious desserts represent typical dishes found in Caceres.

Tapas with jamon iberico, pork carpaccio, lamb stew and luscious regional desserts represent typical dishes found in Caceres.

4. The abundance of natural agricultural products, and

5. The general high-quality of…well…of everything.

The city supports its year of culinary splendor by offering food-focused festivals and events as well as maps outlining the many culinary trails that crisscross the city and region.

Map of Careers Culinary Trails by Susan Manlin Katzman

So what are the top flavors uniquely Cáceres?

Jamón Ibérico, an exquisite cured ham from black Iberian pigs. Although there are different types of Ibérico ham, also called pata negra, the finest, Jamón Ibérico Bellota D.O. Deshesa Extrmadura comes from pigs allowed to roam, free range, in oak groves and feed on acorns. Incidentally one can distinguish a black Iberian pig by the black color of the pigs’ nails.

Jamon Iberia by Susan Manlin Katzman


Cheese, especially the slightly salty and gently tangy Ibores P.D.O., made from unpasteurized goat’s milk, and the creamy, pungent, complex Torta del Casar P.D.O., made with unpasteurized sheep’s milk and a thistle (vegetable) rennet.

Famous Cheeses from Careers by Susan Manlin Katzman


Flavorful smoked paprika from La Vera. This oak-smoked Spanish seasoning, officially called D.O. Pimentón de la Vera, was first introduced by monks in the 16th century. The three varieties sold today—sweet, bittersweet (medium hot) and hot, lend an earthy woodsy taste to everything from soup to nuts and is considered essential to authentic Spanish cooking. (Makes a great take-home souvenir and culinary gift.)

Smoked Paprika from La Vera


Extra Virgin Olive Oils known for their fruity nuances, low bitterness and gorgeous complexity.

Olive Oil


Wine from the Ribera del Guadiana growing area.
Tempranillos are favored and Cavas delight.



Agricultural products including figs, acorns, chestnuts, cherries that make their way into vinegars, marmalades, liquors and beer.

Artisans Vinegar from Caceres by Susan Manlin Katzman

Spanish Marmalade by Susan Manlin Katzman

Cherry and Acorn Liquors by Susan Manlin Katzman

Caceres Famous Beers by Susan Manlin Katzman


Pastries and confections made from ancient recipes by cloistered nuns and charmingly sold from behind closed doors in convents.
(To order: Enter the convent’s open door leading to a small room—a menu and price list are posted on the wall. Use a microphone to order, then put your money on the tray of a revolving window. The window turns and your sweets and change come back to you at the next turn. You never see the nuns.)

Doorway of the Convento de San Pablo

Buying Sweets from Convento de San Pablo by Susan Manlin Katzman

Convent Purchase by Susan Manlin Katzman


Lamb and beef from Extremadura’s pastures,

Extremadura Sheep in Field by Susan Manlin Katzman

wild game, tench and other freshwater fish caught in the River Tagus, and migas.

Migas (translated “crumbs”) is enjoyed in several regions of Spain. Each region—well actually each cook in each region, produces a personal version. Think of migas as a rustic shepherd’s dish that is easy to make from leftover bread that is crumbled and fried in a single pan with ingredients on hand. Migas is ever present in Cáceres. It’s served as a main course, tapa or side dish in tapas bars, coffee houses, hotels and fine restaurants.

Midas Served Several Ways by Susan Manlin Katzman

Locals have a curious custom of taking a spoonful of migas and dipping it in their morning coffee or hot chocolate for a snack.

Migas Dipped in Morning Coffee by Susan Manlin Katzman

MIGAS (Crumbs)

Yield: 4 servings as main course (topped with a fried egg) or 6 servings as a side dish or tapa.

Migas by Susan Manlin Katzman4 cups coarse dried bread crumbs cut from leftover crusty French or Italian bread
Extra virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, peeled and halved
About 1/3 cup diced Spanish chorizo
About 1/3 cup diced Serrano ham
Spanish smoked paprika
About 3 tablespoons cut strips of roasted, peeled red pepper, optional

Put bread crumbs in a bowl and sprinkle with just enough water to moisten the crumbs. Toss crumbs well and cover bowl with damp paper towels. Set bowl aside until bread is evenly moistened, a couple of hours to overnight.
Cover the bottom of a large skillet with a generous layer of olive oil. Set skillet over medium-high heat. Add garlic and stir until garlic browns lightly and oil becomes fragrant, about 2 minutes. Remove garlic from pan. Add chorizo and ham and cook, stirring often, until meat browns lightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Add bread crumbs to skillet. Sprinkle generously with paprika and lightly with salt (remember the meat could be salty). Stir to mix thoroughly. Sauté, stirring often, until crumbs are golden brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in roasted red pepper strips if desired.
Serve warm, or cool and serve at room temperature.

Stay tuned for more about Cáceres and the city’s extraordinary restaurants, great places to stay and incredible food—coming soon.

Walking in Careers, Spain by Susan Manlin Katzman




Cameron House on Loch Lomond

I can’t say I’ve seen all of the resorts in Scotland (damn), but after a short stop at Cameron House, I think it has to rank as the best. Why? Cameron House wins my heart for its:

WONDERFUL LOCATION about 20 minutes from Glasgow International Airport, on the bonnie banks o’ Loch Lomond—in the midst of the Trossachs National Park.


GORGEOUS SCENERY overlooking the shimmering Loch Lomond, the largest inland stretch of water (by surface area) in Great Britain, backed by the moody, misty Ben Lomond, a dramatically lovely mountain looming on the east shore of the lake.

Loch Lomond and Ben Lomond


WARM WELCOME filled with smiling staff, glowing fireplaces, fresh flowers and luscious room amenities (mine was candy—sigh!).

Warm Welcome collage by Susan Manlin Katzman


WELL-APPOINTED ROOMS AND SUITES, especially the spacious whisky suites that blend traditional Scottish decor with every contemporary comfort.

Whisky Suite at Cameron House collage by Susan Manlin Katzman



The Michelin starred Martin Wishart on Loch Lomond serving French-accented, modern-Scottish cuisine.

Martin Wishart on Loch Lomond

The Cameron Grill, featuring a salmon bar loaded with smoked and cured delicacies, a butchery with beef only from Scottish herds and a see-into kitchen preparing seafood just plucked from local waters.

The Cameron Grill collage by Susan Manlin Katzman

The Boat House, situated on an active marina, specializing in seafood and international favorites.

Marina at The Boat House

The Claret Jug, a clubhouse at the golf course offering light bites as well as hearty casual fare.

The Claret Jug


DESTINATION SPA with gracious waiting rooms, 17 treatment rooms, rooftop infinity pool and dining room serving items geared “to cleanse the body and appease the tastebuds.”

The Carrick Spa collage by Susan Manlin Katzman

The Carrick Spa collage by Susan Manlin Katzman


GREAT GOLF on The Carrick, an 18-hole, 71 par course that straddles the boundary between the Lowlands of Central Scotland and the Highlands.

Golf at Cameron House


ACTIVITY CENTER sporting a gym, squash courts and terrific indoor pool.

Indoor Pool at Cameron House by Susan Manlin Katzman


GREAT SCOTS BAR, my favorite bar in Scotland, featuring comfy chairs and couches, fireplace and over 260 different whiskies, including 17 limited editions and one made by Auchentoshan purely for Cameron House.

Great Scots Bar collage by Susan Manlin Katzman


SHOPPING in the main resort building, spa, and golf facility.

Shopping at Cameron House collage by Susan Manlin Katzman


SEAPLANE AND 64-FOOT CRUISER which are both available to guests for exploring Loch Lomond.

Seaplane at Cameron House by Susan Manlin Katzman


Paper-mache trophies at Cameron House by Susan Manlin KatzmanSENSE OF HUMOR expressed by papier-mâché animal trophies hanging on tall walls and the names of specialty drinks in the bar, e.g. the Kilt Lifter.


Yield: one cocktail

1 shot (25 m) blended whiskyThe Kilt Lifter cocktail by Susan Manlin Katzman
1 shot Drambuie (a sweet Scotch whisky liqueur)
1/2 lime
Ginger beer
Lemon twist for garnish (see NOTE)
Fill a 12-ounce glass 3/4 full with cracked ice. Add whisky, Drambuie and juice of lime. Stir gently. Top off glass with Ginger beer. Garnish with lemon twist.

NOTE: To cut a lemon twist, first cut the nubs from both ends of a lemon. Hold a sharp paring knife at an angle at the top of the lemon and start cutting a  strip of the yellow peel and some white pith working your way around and down the lemon in an unbroken spiral. Apply even pressure and rotate the lemon, not the knife.

Click HERE for a whisky tasting experience near Cameron House. 

Click HERE to read about another fabulous Scottish Highland hotel. 





The 100 Best Barbecue Restaurants in America, front coverWhen you first meet Johnny Fugitt he radiates a gentlemanly persona. Winning smile. Charming manners. Not a spot on his shirt nor bulk to his body (which is contrary to what a steady diet of barbecue might suggest). Not that a second meeting doesn’t yield the same reaction. It’s just that Johnny seems more of a modern day Thoreau looking for cabin in the country than what he actually is: an officer in the United States Navy Reserve, a graduate of the London School of Economics, a world traveler and an accomplished writer who authored the very appealing “The 100 Best Barbecue Restaurants in America.”
When it comes to the book, necessity inspired invention. Johnny couldn’t find a quintessential study of America’s barbecue restaurants—so he decided to write one. Dropping everything (job I presume), he hit the road for a year to taste test barbecue in 48 states. The results is a travel journal, restaurant guide and fun peek at such varied topics as why non red-meat eaters attract more women than meat eaters, how a barbecue gorger can lose weight, and what everyone should know about…well…about everything concerning barbecue including, competitions, chains, gadgets and gimmicks.
Johnny considers barbecue American art and tells us why. You’ll have to read the book to get the full monty, but you can catch a glimpse below where Johnny lists some of his favorite stops for Sweet Leisure.  In his own words, heeeeere’s Johnny!!!

Johnny Fugitt

Johnny Fugitt

In one year, I visited 365 barbecue restaurants across 48 states. From barbecue fish ‘n chips to smoked alligator, I tried just about everything the barbecue world has to offer. I made the great sacrifices of eating plate after plate of barbecue and traveling the country to save you from one of life’s great tragedies: a poor plate of barbecue.
I was unsatisfied with the “Top 10 BBQ” lists that recycle the same historic or well-marketed restaurants over and over again. I had visited many of these restaurants and thought that some were good, but that others survived solely on reputation and were not really producing top notch ‘cue.
My book, The 100 Best Barbecue Restaurants in America, chronicles my journey, shares secrets from barbecue kitchens and points readers in the direction of America’s best ‘cue.
At the end of the book, I list my “Dream Meals” from various barbecue cities and have an awards section where I name the “Ten Best Ribs in America”, “Ten Best Briskets Outside Texas”, etc. I want to share a few of these highlights with you today.

North Carolina takes great pride in their chopped or pulled pork, but I listed Payne’s Bar-B-Q in Memphis as the best pork in America. North Carolina is fairly represented with four restaurants in the Top 10 of this category, while Georgia and Texas round out the rest.

Payne's Bar-B-Q Chopped Pork

Payne’s Bar-B-Q Chopped Pork


If you haven’t tried Texas brisket, you haven’t had brisket. All corners of America cook the brisket cut of beef, but Texans transform it into something else entirely. Aaron Franklin gets all the press for his fantastic briskets in Austin, but I think Kerlin BBQ, also in Austin, does it just a touch better.

Kerlin's BBQ Brisket

Kerlin’s BBQ Brisket


The gospel of Texas-style brisket is spreading and there are a few individuals scattered across the country who can do it well. Billy Durney is one of the few. He studied under storied Texas pitmasters before opening Hometown Bar-B-Que in Brooklyn, New York. It’s the best brisket outside the Lone Star State. Hometown’s ribs are some of my favorites too.

Hometown's Bar-B-Que Ribs

Hometown’s Bar-B-Que Ribs


A great burnt end is one of the best bites in barbecue…scratch that…one of the best bites in food. No one does burnt ends better than The Shaved Duck in St. Louis, Missouri. Smoky, charred, lightly sauced – these are the bites of barbecue that turn casual fans into diehards.

The Shaved Duck's Burnt Ends

The Shaved Duck’s Burnt Ends


The book lists the “10 Best Non-Traditional Meats or Main Dishes” that I found across the country at barbecue restaurants. My favorite was the beef clod at The Granary Cue and Brew in San Antonio, Texas. Clod is a tough, underutilized cut that many restaurants will not touch. The Granary goes a bit more upscale with theirs by placing it over a coffee quinoa crunch, pickled celery and an angel food cake-like cornbread. It’s topped with a tomato-caramel sauce and is absolutely delicious.

The Granary's Beef Clod

The Granary’s Beef Clod


Slaw divides people into camps – the largest of which are the mayonnaise camp and the vinegar camp. My favorite, however, is the spicy mustard slaw from Rendezvous in Memphis.

Spicy Mustard Slaw at Rendezvous

Spicy Mustard Slaw at Rendezvous


Some consider eating barbecue a religious experience. Barbecue joints don’t need to be fancy, but they need to have character. I think the best barbecue atmosphere in America is found at Smitty’s Market in Lockhart, Texas. With smoky pits, live fires, antique décor and small-town hospitality, it’s a must-have stamp in any barbecue lover’s passport.


 Contact Johnny at:

Click HERE to buy The 100 Best Barbecue Restaurants in America. 

Click HERE to read about Kansas City barbecue. 






If you’re a golfer, a gardener and/or gourmet, Kohler is the place to be.
If you’re an interior decorator, designer and/or plumber, Kohler is the place to be.
If you love luxurious stays, fine restaurants, spa treatments, divine chocolates, Kohler is the place to be. Oh, let’s cut to the chase. If it’s spring, summer or fall, and you’re seeking a fabulous getaway, Kohler is the place to be.

What does Kohler, Wisconsin, have that other Midwest destinations don’t have?

First is THE AMERICAN CLUB, a Forbes Five-Star, AAA 5-diamond resort packed with luxurious pleasures.

American Club Entrance

Once upon a time the property served as a boarding house for immigrants working in the Kohler factory (you know, of plumbing product fame). Kohler was a factory town and still is, but the boarding house morphed into a spiffy hotel which opened to the public in 1981. Today’s resort pays tribute to the past in spirit while providing guests with every contemporary amenity, including:

Beautifully outfitted ROOMS AND SUITES, all showcasing Kohler fixtures in bathrooms.

Bedroom at The American Club

Bathroom at The American Club


TWELVE RESTAURANTS ranging in style from top-of-the-line Immigrant Restaurant to the farm-focused Wisconsin Room and the casual Horse & Plow tavern. (See wonderful recipe for Wisconsin Three Cheese Soup from Horse & Plow below.)

Starters at The American Club Restaurants

Starters at various American Club restaurants


THE GREENHOUSE, an antique solarium imported piece by piece from England and reassembled in the center of the resort. Perfect for consuming morning coffee, afternoon tea, pastries, ice cream and other refreshments as well as newspapers and email.

Greenhouse at The American Club


Here’s where it is folks. Kohler’s renowned golf features WHISTLING STRAITS, two 18-hole championship Pete Dye-designed courses: The Straits and The Irish. (The Straits follows two miles of uninterrupted shoreline on Lake Michigan, with eight holes along the shoreline and views of water from all 18 holes.) And BLACKWOLF RUN, two 18-hole, Pete Dye designed courses named for their environmental features, The River and The Meadow Valley.

Golf Blackwolf Run

Golf at Destination Kohler


KOHLER WATER SPA, a two-level facility complete with 21-treatment rooms, a 30-foot relaxation pool backed by a waterfall, a plunge pool and a boutique.

Kohler Water Spa


KOHLER DESIGN CENTER, a 35,935-square-foot showcase of Kohler Company products (from the good old days to cutting-edge new).

Kohler Design Center Collage


GARDENS covering about 1000 acres with varied landscapes that include natural areas as well as formal flower gardens and outdoor art.

Gardens  at The American Club

American Club Garden Collage

Gardens at Destination Kohler


CHOCOLATE as Kohler’s grand obsession started in 2007 when Herbert Kohler created the Terrapin, a classic chocolate, pecan and caramel turtle—only better. In fact, Mr. Kohler’s Terrapins are the very best turtles ever made (and if you are a chocolatier who wants to dispute the claim, send me samples of yours and I will happily compare).
Today the Kohler Original Recipe Chocolates collection includes several kinds of Terrapins as well other fine chocolate products available on line and at Kohler shops.

Tarrapins at Kohler



Yield: 6 servings.

1 cup butter
About ½ cup flourHorse and Plow Beer Cheese Soup aab07066
1 quart milk
½ to 1 tablespoon Tabasco
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
12 ounces Wisconsin beer
½ cup heavy cream
2 teaspoons onion powder
2 teaspoons garlic powder
Salt and white pepper to taste
½ pound shredded Wisconsin Cheddar cheese
½ pound shredded Wisconsin Swiss cheese
½ pound shredded Wisconsin jalapeño jack cheese
Croutons for garnish

Make roux: melt butter in a 12-inch sauté pan or skillet and remove from heat. Add flour and whisk until incorporated. Consistency should be like wet sand. If not thick enough, add additional flour. Return to stovetop and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally for 10-15 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

In a large soup pot heat milk to almost a boil, but do not let mixture boil. Reduce heat and add Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce and beer. Incorporate well using a whisk.
Add cream and seasonings. Gently heat to almost a boil again, then slowly whisk in small amounts of reserved roux to thicken to desired consistency. (There will be some left over.) Cook over medium heat 10 to 15 minutes.
Gradually add cheese in small handfuls making sure to thoroughly melt and incorporate each handful before adding more. Cook over low heat for 15 to 20 minutes. (Do not let the soup reach a temperature over 150-degrees or it will separate.)
Serve immediately with croutons.

Click HERE for more wonderful recipes from The American Club.
Cheese Condiments





Overview of CodyAnyone trying to lasso the spirit of the old Wild West should head to Cody, Wyoming. Founded in the 1890s by pony express rider, army scout and flamboyant Wild West showman William Frederick Cody (a.k.a Buffalo Bill—a name he earned shooting a staggering number of bison), Cody remains western to the core.
The town sits in the scenic wonder of northwest Wyoming and packs in all of a cowboy’s natural paraphernalia: wide-open spaces, canyons, rivers and mountains.
With a frontier reputation and population of 10,000, Cody might seem to be just the hop-along point to Yellowstone National Park (which it is). But don’t be bamboozled. Cody is anything but a one horse town. Visitors who linger a while find much action and a cowboy brand of fun that’s hard to buck.
So what should visitors do in Cody and nearby Buffalo Bill country?

BUNK AT BUFFALO BILL’S IRMA HOTEL and rustle up dinner in the dining room.
Built by Buffalo Bill in 1902 and named for his daughter, Irma, the hotel sits in the center of town and serves as the focal point of Cody activity.

The Irma Hotel in Cody
The property is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and retains all the charm of a bygone era. Although old-fashioned in ambiance and decor, both standard and famed historic rooms sport such updates as modern bathrooms, air-conditioning, T.V.s, and Wi-Fi.

Irma Hotel Rooms
Be sure to watch the free staged gunfight often featuring Wyatt Earp, Doc Holliday, and Calamity Jane that takes place in the street outside of the hotel each evening of summer and then belly up to the dining room buffet for some of the best prime rib in cowboy country.

Prime Rib at the Irma


RIDE THE CODY TROLLEY for a 60-minute tour that covers the whole kit and caboodle of Cody’s old and new attractions. 

Cody Trolley


MOSEY THROUGH OLD TRAIL TOWN AND MUSEUM OF THE OLD WEST to see a collection of historic buildings, furnishing and artifacts from the early fur-trading time to the end of the 19th century. The collection includes a cabin used by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, a saloon frequented by Cassidy’s Hole-in-the-Wall Gang and the grave of mountain man John “Jeremiah Liver-Eating” Johnston.

Old Trail Town

Old Trail Town Saloon and Grave


WRANGLE A SEAT AT DAN MILLER’S COWBOY MUSIC REVUE and watch Dan Miller and other top-notch performers delight the audience with an array of songs, jokes, poetry and stories.

Cody Theatre


ROPE TICKETS TO THE CODY NITE RODEO to understand why bull and bronc riding, barrel racing, bull fighting and clowning around keeps Cody’s rodeo the longest running nightly rodeo in the country. 

Cody Rodeo


STEER YOUR WAY TO THE BUFFALO BILL CENTER OF THE WEST,  a beautifully contemporary facility incorporating five museums (Buffalo Bill Museum, Cody Firearms Museum, Draper Natural History Museum, Whitney Western Art Museum and the Plains Indian Museum) as well as a restaurant, coffee bar and research library. Plan on spending hours—if not days. 

Buffleo Bill Center of the West

Inside the Buffalo Bill Center of the West

Delights at the Buffalo Bill Center of the West


SHOOT OVER TO THE CODY DUG UP GUN MUSEUM where displays feature “dug up” and “found” guns, weapons and artifacts from many time periods including America’s War of Independence, the Civil War, and World War I and II.

Dug Up Gun Museum


HEAD OUT YONDER to tour the BUFFALO BILL DAM AND VISITOR CENTER, considered the tallest concrete dam in the world back in 1910 when it was constructed.

Buffalo Bill Dam and Visitor Center


and the HEART MOUNTAIN WWII INTERPRETIVE CENTER, a relocation camp where 14,000 Japanese Americans were interned during World War II. 

Heart Mountain WWII Interpretive Center


WHEN YOU GET A HANKERING FOR GRUB, click HERE for local foodie Ruffin Prevost’s list of the best Cody Restaurants. 

Cody Food, Yum!


And WET YOUR WHISTLE at bars throughout the city. Our favorite Cody cocktail comes from  8th Street at the Ivy. It’s perfect for dudes who can’t decide between a mojito or margarita. Mixing the two creates a drink better than the sum of it’s parts. Yippie-yi-yo-ka-yay fabulous!


Yield: 1 fabulous drink.Tequila Mojito Margarita
5 mint leaves
2 ounces Suerte Reposado tequila
Sweet and sour mix to taste (recipe follows)
Splash orange juice
3 thin slices jalapeño
Thin wedge of lime, for garnish

Put mint leaves the bottom of a old Fashioned glass and muddle lightly with a wooden spoon. Fill glass with ice. Add tequila, sweet and sour mix, orange juice and jalapeño. Stir gently. Put lime wedge on rim of glass.

Yield: About 2-3/4 cup.
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup water
2/3 cup fresh squeezed lemon juice
2/3 cup fresh squeezed lime juice
Put sugar and water in a small saucepan and set over medium heat. Cook until all sugar dissolves, stirring constantly. Raise heat and, without stirring, bring mixture to a boil. Remove syrup from heat and set aside to cool.
When cool mix syrup with juices. Put mix in a covered container and refridgerate.



Cody and Wide Open Spaces






Kansas City is said to have over 100 restaurants, joints, shacks, stands, trucks and other outlets that specialize in barbecue. And most of the places serve barbecue that’s smokin, making it it the pits for tourists fired up to find the hottest to decide where to go. That’s when supergal Bethanie Schemel comes to the rescue.



We call Bethanie “supergal” because she not only moms two kids (a new baby and a toddler), but also runs a popular business with her firefighter husband, Karl. 

The Schemel’s excellent KC Barbecue Tours, takes tourists and locals alike, by motor coach, to Kansas City’s top barbecue places. During each tour, Bethanie offers smart dialogue covering everything from the history of the city and of its barbecue, to what to order in each place and how to avoid barbecue overdose. (One tip is “pace yourself,” advice generally ignored as KC Barbecue Tours go whole hog providing samples at each stop.)

Timing allows the tours to stop at four restaurants plus the fascinating Original Juan Speciality Foods—a company that bottles BBQ sauces, rubs and seasonings for a large number of KC BBQ outlets.

Entrance at Original Juan Speciality Foods

Because the tours offer visitors an in-depth, insider introduction to KC’s barbecue scene and are not only super informative, but also throughly enjoyable, we say they are a must, but just in case visitors want more, we grilled Bethanie about where they should go.
Supergal fired us the following list of personal favorite places, some of which are on the tour, and some not:

Kansas City has been serving up smoked meats for well over 100 years and pit masters around the city have spent that time perfecting their craft. Once known as the “poor man’s food” only being served out as a way to keep families fed during the late 1800’s, Kansas City barbecue has grown to the point where a barbecue restaurant can be found every few miles. With over 100 barbecue restaurants dotted throughout the Kansas City area, Kansas City has earned the title of “The Barbecue Capital of the World”.
With this title in hand, each restaurant has remained true to their own history and methods on how they prep, smoke and serve their meats. The question of whose smoked meats to try is a long-standing question that will vary depending on who you ask. Below are a few restaurants I recommend hitting while in Kansas City:

LC’s Bar-B-Q

Ribs at LC'sTake a step inside LC’s and you will find an old fashioned barbecue joint, where the smoker sits right behind the small counter and every order is called out to be made on the spot. Their hickory smoked meats and sweet sauce have Kansas City locals lining up on a daily basis. The secret to LC’s is to know what you want before you step to the counter. My recommendation is the brisket, ribs or burnt ends with either fries or beans to go on the side.

Arthur Bryant’s Barbecue

Arthur Bryant Barbecue SignArthur Bryant’s is, perhaps, the city’s most historic, iconic and well-respected barbecue restaurant. Holding true to traditional Kansas City smoking methods of oak and hickory wood, Arthur Bryant’s is not only a popular spot for locals, but for celebrities, presidents and politicians. If you are going to walk through their historic doors, make sure to grab a slab of ribs or brisket sandwich with a side of beans, cole slaw or fries. Make sure to try some of their Original sauce to bring on a little extra flavorful history.

Gates Bar B.Q.

Gates Bar B Q in Kansas CityDon’t let the loud “Hi, May I Help You” greeting as you walk in the door startle you as you look for which savory and traditional Kansas City oak and hickory smoked meats to try on their menu. Gates and Son’s is another historic, iconic and well-respected barbecue must-try in Kansas City. The atmosphere can be loud and classy at the same time, and the menu will give you many options. If you have a hard time choosing, you can’t wrong with one of their platters which serves out ribs, brisket and turkey slathered in their Classic barbecue sauce.

Woodyard Bar-B-Q

Woodyard Bar-B-Q by Susan Manin KatzmanSet off the beaten path, Woodyard is a true hidden gem in Kansas City! It’s not just the down to earth atmosphere that will make you want to hang out on their patio, watch the Pit Master work his magic and enjoy a Boulevard brew, but their delicious meats smoked over pecan wood will make you want to hang out for just a little bit longer. If you get there early enough, order Woodyard’s chicken wings. You can never go wrong with their baby back ribs, Frankenwurst (smoked sausage), or Carolina sandwich. Sides are an absolute must at Woodyard! Their cheesy corn, potato salad and coleslaw are made in house and are my top picks.

BB’s Lawnside BBQ

It was the Father of Kansas City barbecue, Henry Perry, who once posted a sign stating “I’m here to serve you, not entertain you.” While this holds true in many Kansas City barbecue restaurants, BB’s is happy to serve and entertain you with live blues music six nights a week and hickory smoked meats fresh from a smoker. BB’s has ties to Kansas City’s famous Jazz district, so sit back, listen to the tunes, pop the top on a cold one and enjoy some amazing ribs, burnt ends along with battered fries.

BB's Lawnside BBQ collage by Susan Manlin Katzman


RibsZarda Bar-B-Q

A taste of hickory smoked meats and flavorful sauces, along with their down-home country atmosphere makes Zarda BBQ a Kansas City favorite. Sure, you may have seen their sauces, beans or smoked meats on store shelves, but nothing beats getting these BBQ Sign

smoked meats in person. The burnt ends and thin sliced sausage with beans on the side (that can only be described as a taste adventure) are my top picks.

Plowboys BBQ

If you want a taste of Assorted Smoked Foods and Potato Saladaward-winning
competition style barbecue, a stop in at Plowboys BBQ is a must. Plowboys won the title of Grand Champion from the 2009 American Royal Barbecue Competition, and you can get a taste of victory in any of their oak wood smoked meats (although ribs, burnt ends, brisket and their BBQ Nachos are the top four that please my palate).


BBQ Sauces from Original JuansGet to SLAP’s early if you are wanting to try their nationally recognized barbecue. Coming in second place (only because of a coin toss) on the show Barbecue Pitmasters, this restaurant will make you want to keep going back for their ribs and cheesy potatoes.

KC Barbecue Tours Bus by Susan Manlin Katzman





Blues City DeliDoesn’t matter when you show up for lunch, even minutes after the doors open at 11 a.m. you’re apt to find long lines.

Blues City Deli, located in St. Louis’s Benton Park neighborhood is a popular place. It’s also casual, comfortable, and party friendly—no doubt reflecting the casual, comfortable and party-fun personality of its food-and blues-loving owner, Vince “Vinnie” Valenza.

Vince "Vinnie" Valenza by Susan Manlin Katzman

Vince “Vinnie” Valenza

Lines move quickly through the first floor of the old brick building to the counter of the sandwich shop where one places orders.

Counter at Blues City Deli

Vinyl flooring, wooden tables with assorted black chairs and banquette seating add to the aged urban decor, further enhanced by a spirited vibe radiating from old posters, record jackets, news clippings, paintings, photos and a mishmash of miscellaneous music memorabilia covering walls.

Art Walls at Blue's City Deli
Delivering SandwichesAfter ordering one tries to find a table—or maybe even just a spare chair at a shared table and waits while staff, in a backroom kitchen, constructs sandwiches. Wrapped in butcher paper, tuck into plastic bags, the sandwiches find their way to you by way of playful servers. 

A PA system sends background blues through the cafe, that is unless it is Thursday evening or Saturday afternoon when blues musicians show up to play live—sometimes inside, sometimes outside—always free of charge.

Blues City Deli keeps short hours, opening at 11 a.m. Monday through Saturday and closing every day at 4:00 p.m., except on Thursdays when blues bands sends soulful sounds into the cafe until 7:45 p.m.

Some say that the deli reminds them of a Greenwich Village hangout. Others claim it’s totally New Orleans. All are partially right and somewhat wrong. Blues City Deli is a St. Louis original and has been for the last decade.

Vinnie says that he scored the menu to pay tribute to many of the blues music cities on the “Blues Highway.” And indeed, the menu’s play list includes such sandwiches as the Memphis Stax, Delta Bayou, and St. Louis Primo. Po’ boys, New York-Style pastrami sandwiches, classic clubs, veggies, and a variety of good tastin’ dogs make the scene, as do local beverages and simple sides in the form of a few salads, cole slaw, chili and bagged chips.

Local Drinks at Blues City Deli Collage by Susan Manlin Katzman
Items change from time to time, but the Muffuletta stays put on the menu, as it strikes a particularly popular cord with the Blues City population.

Muffuletta Photo by Maya Gann-Bociek

Muffuletta Photo by Maya Gann-Bociek

As Muffuletta fans know, olive salad is the keynote condiment adding flavor to the New Orleans speciality, but Vinnie spreads the joy and uses olive salad to jazz up other sandwiches as well.
He didn’t miss a beat in sharing his recipe. And after testing and tasting, we can only say: Bravo, you make our heart sing!


Yield: about 4-1/2 cups.

2 cups pitted Sicilian olivesOlive Salad
1 cup pitted kalamata olives
1 cup giardiniera (Italian-style pickled vegetables)
1 rib celery
1/4 cup chopped red onion
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon dried oregano
Ground black pepper to taste
Additional seasonings to taste, optional (See NOTE)

Coarsely chop olives, giardiniera, and celery. Put chopped ingredients in a mixing bowl. Add olive oil, oregano and pepper.
Stir to mix well. Taste. Correct seasoning if desired.
Refrigerate in a covered container until ready to use.
Serve with roasted meats, sandwiches, or just as a snack on crackers.

NOTE: Much of the olive salad’s flavor depends on the giardiniera used. Add additional seasoning to the salad if you like.




Glory be. InveIrlochy Castle Hotel just won the 2015 Scottish Hotel Award for Hotel of the Year. The property double dipped the prizes by also claiming Restaurant of the Year.
Let me tell you why.

Inverlochy Castle Hotel by Susan Manlin Katzman
Built in 1863 as a private home named for the nearby 13th century Inverlochy Castle, the baronial mansion has been polishing, perfecting and practicing the art of public hospitality since becoming a hotel in 1969.
Everything about Inverlochy Castle Hotel charms.
First is the setting.

Inverlochy Setting College
The hotel sits on 50 acres in a green glen at the foot of Ben Nevis (Britain’s highest mountain range), near Fort Williams, in the heart of Scotland’s western Highlands. The setting couldn’t be more enchanting. The mountains glow in each day’s ever- changing light. The lock glimmers. Grazing sheep on the grassy green continually rearrange their groupings into a million picture postcard images of countryside beauty and serenity.

Sheep at Inverlochy Castle Hotel

 Queen Victoria, a guest at Inverlochy in 1873, said of the site, “I never saw a lovelier or more romantic spot.” Jefferson Davis, President of the Confederate States of America, a guest in 1869, wrote ”The scenery about here is the grandest of all the sublime spectacles I have met in Scotland.” 

The hotel’s interior matches its rich surroundings. Registration takes place in an entry hall outfitted with oriental rug and antique furnishings.

Entry Hall at Inverlohy Castle Hotel

The Great Hall’s impressive high ceiling frescos and crystal chandeliers, overlook intimate seating arrangements defined by groupings of upholstered easy chairs and couches. A whisky cabinet, antique French piano, and stack of boxed games add congenial homey touches as well as entertainment elements.

Frescos and chandeliers

The Great Hall at Inverlochy Castle Hotel

Games & Whisky

The next-door Drawing Room is just as hospitable and welcoming although lighter and brighter due to sparkling rococo mirrors and sunshine-colored walls and drapes gracing almost floor to ceiling windows.

The Drawing Room at Inverlochy Castle Hotel
The Great Hall and Drawing Room provide relaxed and lovely locations for afternoon tea, pre-dinner Champagne and/or just reading in a quiet corner—then again, so does the terrace.

Terrace at Inverlochy Castle Hotel
Inverlochy boasts three dining rooms if one counts the Library (practically hidden and outfitted for private parties). Decorated with furniture and table dressing reflecting the upscale style of bygone elegance, the dining rooms serve as tasteful frames for the castle’s famed modern British cuisine.

Table setting at Inverlochy Castle Hotel

Scottish breakfast in the dining room

Scottish breakfast in the dining room

(Incidentally gentlemen…well all males, are required to wear coat and tie at dinner. The hotel provides a stash for those unprepared.)

Coats and ties are required at dinner at Inverlochy Castle Hotel
The 17 bedrooms in the main house vary in style and configuration. Some wear period Victorian wallpaper and floral-patterned fabrics on headboards and upholstery. Others sport four poster beds, with dark-colored striped and plaid spreads and drapes. All contain a treasure trove of antique furnishing and appointments. And all have ultra-modern flatscreen TVs, good views and dynamite bathrooms.

Bed in the King's Suite at Inverlochy Castle Hotel
I stayed in the Mary Shaw room, which was named after the property’s first cook. Although I am sure the other rooms, especially the King’s and Queen’s suites, are just as nice, I can’t believe the cook’s room was not the jewel in the crown as it was so incredibly comfortable and well appointed. I especially loved the huge bathroom with a green velvet chair, shower big enough for four, bathtub big enough for two, and luscious toiletries that lent fragrance to all.

The Mary Shaw room at Inverlochy Castle Hotel

Bathroom in the Mary Shaw room at Inverlochy Castle Hotel

Toiletries at Inverlochy Castle Hotel

As to what to do at Inverlochy? Once one can pull themselves out of the deeply comfortable bed, and leave the beautiful room, the environment and surrounding countryside offer many activities. Skiing, biking, hiking, stalking in the mountains. Fishing in the lochs and river. And a variety of country-gentlemen sports such as clay pigeon shooting, falconry, tennis, tomahawk throwing, and snooker on the property itself.
For a hotel that racks up the accolades—including Best Hotel in Europe (Travel and Leisure magazine 2006), and a property that has hosted many of the world’s elite, Inverlochy remains unpretentious and informally grand—no doubt due to the friendly staff and the property’s attention to details that make every aspect of a stay enjoyable. Morning coffee as served at Inverlochy Castle Hotel
Services run the gamut from chauffeuring guests from any Scottish airport to the hotel in a Rolls Royce Phantom (the property also has it’s own Helicopter landing site) to the simple amenity of bringing coffee to the room as a wake-up call.
Granted most luxury hotels have room service deliver coffee, but Inverlochy enhances their coffee delivery with plate of buttery, melt-in-the-mouth shortbread cookies—providing an extra sweet start to the day and stay.


(Adapted from a recipe provided by Inverlochy Castle Hotel.)
Yield: 15 three-inch in diameter cookies.Shortbread
17 tablespoons butter
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon superfine sugar (see NOTE)
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 cup cornstarch
A little granulated sugar to sprinkle on top of cookies before baking
Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.
Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Fold in flour and cornstarch to form a dough. Either put dough in piping bag and pipe cookies into 3-inch circles or roll dough 1/4 inch thick between sheets of plastic wrap and cut into circles with a cookie cutter.
Put dough circles on parchment paper, leaving space between the rounds. Sprinkle tops of circles lightly with granulated sugar.
Bake until cookies are set and just barely beginning to brown, about 15 minutes.

NOTE: If you can’t find superfine sugar (also called caster sugar), blend granulated sugar in a blender or food processor for a few seconds until it is in fine particles.


Key to Happiness





Travelers love Scotland for many reasons, among them the welcoming fun-loving residents, serene scenery, world-class golf, and delightful places to stay. But there is one Scottish lure that makes all of the others shine brighter. We’re talking whisky here. (Notice the spelling differs from Irish whiskey. According to one Irish drinker, “the Scots are just too thrifty to add the e.” )
Bars and pubs do their bit to train visitors to the pleasures of whisky, but those wanting to jump to the chase of understanding, should make their way to Glengoyne Distillery

Glengoyne Distillery
Located in Dumgoyne, near Glasgow, Glengoyne’s property straddles the border road dividing the Scottish Lowlands (where the warehouses sit) from the Highlands (holding the distilling facilities).

Noted as the southern most of the Highland whiskies, Glengoyne (pronounced glen GOIN) receives accolades on many levels. First and foremost comes praise for Glengoyne’s single malt Scotch, known around the world, beloved by many. In addition, tourists applaud Glengoyne’s postcard-pretty setting, in a countryside green-glen at the foot of the Campsie Fells range of verdant hills.

At Glengoyne Distillery

Visitors also rave about the distillery’s outstanding tours.Glengoyne Tours

Disclaimer and confession: I don’t drink whisky. I loved my Glengoyne tour.

Glengoyne sells a variety of tours, among them the basic Wee Tasting tour; the No. 1 Warehouse Session (described as “Wield your dug. Dip two casks. Drink the drams. Bottle your favorite”); a Whisky and Chocolate Matching; and a five-hour, in-depth Masterclass.
David Dick  Offering WhiskyMost tours start in the visitor’s center where a guide offers each person a dram, shows a short film on the distilling process and talks a bit about whisky making and labels. 
Next comes a guided walk through the facilities.
As we head out the Visitor Center’s door, our guide, the smiling, super savvy David Dick, points to a picturesque waterfall from Campsie Fells pooling in a pond at the back of the property and tells us that the water is used, along with barley and yeast, to make Glengoyne whisky.

Campsie Fells by Susan Manlin Katzman
David continues to describe the processes of malting, milling and mashing, fermentation, distillation and maturation as we stroll through various buildings.


He tells us that Glengoyne first made whisky in 1833 and has followed pretty much the same techniques to this day; that the components contributing to Glengoyne’s unique smooth flavor include a very slow distillation process, barley dried by warm air (not peat), and maturing in fine sherry-soaked oak casks.

Scotch Warehouse

We learn that “Angel’s Share” refers to the evaporation from casks as the whisky ages, and that the favorite whisky toast to good health, the Scottish Gaelic Slàinte mhath, rolls right off the tongue after downing a few sample drinks.

Angel Share
I am on the Malt Master Tour, so after the basics, my group settles into the Sample Room, which is set with bottles of different Glengoyne whiskies, small glasses, and all of the paraphernalia necessary to sample and then create a take-home bottle of our own blend.

Ready to Blend Whisky
All tours end at the shop, which sells not only Glengoyne whisky, but also a variety of fine whisky merchandise. Glengoyne Label
Before saying goodbye, David imparts a tidbit of wisdom concerning mixing whisky and water. 
A Scottish proverb says, “There are two things a Highlander likes naked, and one of them is whisky.”  Winston Churchill said, “The water was not fit to drink. To make it palatable, we had to add whisky. By diligent effort, I learnt to like it.” 
And David Dick says, “The only thing one should add to good whisky is, perhaps, a drop of water to release the subtle flavors, and, of course, more whisky.”

For more about whiskey, click HERE