Nice is a word that applies. Easy-going too, and comfortably uncrowded (except on gorgeous-weather weekends and holidays). In fact, Paradise Cove on the Pacific Coast Highway in Malibu, just might be the best-kept-secret sunshine place for L.A. families and friends to enjoy a beach/cafe experience without the razzle, dazzle hoopla of Hollywood or a touristy overload.

Beach at Paradise Cove by Susan Manlin Katzman

Perhaps the quiet is due to the property being privately owned and charging $40 per day for parking.
But not to worry! The public is welcome and insiders know that parking charges drop to $3 for four hours by spending $30 at Bob Morris’ Paradise Cove Beach Cafe (which is easy to do and very much part of the experience).

Paradise Cove Beach Cafe
The cafe is open seven days a week and serves breakfast, lunch, snacks, dinner, drinks and food to go.

So here’s how regulars approach the $3 four hour parking:
Pull into the parking lot at 28128 Pacific Coast Highway and pick up a parking ticket to be validated later. Walk through the cafe to the beach, stopping on the way to reserve an outside table which is set directly in the sand under a canopy to shade the sun. (Indoor seating is also available.)

Outdoor seating at Paradise Cove Cafe


Enjoy the beach while you wait for a table—or eat first and beach later.

Enjoy Beach at Paradise Cove

The cafe provides Adirondack chairs for free and beach beds and private cabanas for a fee.

At Paradise Cove


Beds at Paradise Cove

Tropical drinks sold at the bar, must be consumed in the restaurant, but beer, wine and Champagne are allowed on the beach.

Paradise Cove Drinks

So what to order in the cafe?
The most popular items on the lunch/dinner menu are large enough for sharing and include:

Crispy Calamari at Paradise Cove

Crispy Calamari ($17.95)


Sampler Platter at Paradise Cove/Susan Manlin Katzman

The Hot Combo Sampler with macadamia coconut shrimp, BBQ baby back ribs, BBQ shrimp, fried fish strips, beer battered chicken tenders, fried calamari, and French fries ($26.95)


Cobb Salad at Paradise Cove/Susan Manlin Katzman

Classic Cobb Salad ($15.95)


All three dishes can be ordered with the cafe’s house-made (house-named) 1003 Island Dressing, for which Paradise Cove’s owner, Kerry Morris, shared her recipe:



Paradise Cove 1003 Island Dressing by Susan Manlin KatzmanYield: about 2 cups.

1 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup Heinz ketchup
1/4 cup sweet pickle relish
3 tablespoons shredded sharp cheddar cheese
Salt to taste
Ground Pepper to taste
Granulated garlic to taste
Combine all ingredients and refrigerate until ready to serve. 



Surf Boards Paradise Cove







Bill Yenne Bill Yenne has been writing about beer for a quarter century and is among the world’s leading authorities on beer and brewing history. Then again, he’s an authority on many topics, having contributed to encyclopedias of both world wars as well as having authored more than three dozen non-fiction books with topics ranging from aviation to biography (Julius Caesar, Alexander the Great, Sitting Bull). 
He has traversed the globe collecting material for his books and has appeared in several documentaries broadcast on the History Channel, the National Geographic Channel and ARD German Television. Condé Nast Portfolio Magazine listed his recent history of Guinness among the top business books of the year, and as its top pick for “Cocktail Conversation.”Beer The Ultimate World Tour Cover (hi-res)

Today Bill lives in San Francisco with his wife, Carol, and uses his background in history and travel to delight the reading public.

His latest book, “BEER: The Ultimate World Tour” offers a “global survey and a global celebration of beer” that brews excitement on many levels. 

Bill takes both beer travelers and armchair beer lovers on a journey through 288 pages, detailing not only the beer brewing regions of the world and their bests beers, but also the history of beer and overviews of beer styles and glasses.
As Bill has experienced the best, Sweet Leisure asked him to pick his personal five favorite places to drink beer around the world. He generously sent us the following:



by Bill Yenne

Narrowing a list of favorite places to drink beer to a mere five is an impossible fool’s errand, but when the word “impossible” comes up, I regard it, not as an end game, but merely as a challenge.
The criteria in this list include a geographic range of places (in many a town, I could name five within an easy pub crawl of one another), and that intangible feeling one gets of having arrived within a unique and singularly remarkable setting. There are certain places from which one takes stories that will be elements of one’s own special folklore forever. Going without saying among criteria is an assurance of beer that is sublimely gratifying both to the palate and to the mood.
Finally, there are the intangible criteria of this being a place that speaks of ease and comfort, a place filled with memories of good friends and good times, a place where I would go this afternoon if I could.

Hofbräuhaus München

HofbräuhausPlatzl 9, Munich, Germany

You should, at least once in your life, visit the cathedral of beer. To enter it for the first time is breathtaking. Like a great Gothic cathedral it is so vast that one is dwarfed by the scale, filled with awe and left speechless. Most who write of it use the word “cavernous.” Most who go there, use the word “fun.” Like a great Gothic cathedral it is filled with music, a live band or two thundering with German traditional Bavarian drinking songs.
Those who write about it remind you that it was founded in 1589 by Wilhelm, Duke of Bavaria, as the royal brewery, and that both Mozart and Lenin drank here – a lot. But these things are easily forgotten when you are surrounded by a swirling mass of humanity, each man or woman hoisting a full-liter maßkrug, and your immediate goal is to get one of those in your hand. If you come in the warmer months, there is an equally enormous beer garden just outside the beer hall. Come for the maßkrug, and stay for the plates, overflowing with wurst and schnitzel. The variety of beer styles is limited, mainly to helles and dunkel, but Hofbräuhaus also brews (now at an offsite production brewery) Delictor doppelbock, Münchner Weisse hefeweizen and Festbier Märzen for Oktoberfest, among others.

Staminee De Garre

Staminee De Garre

De Garre 1, Brugge, Belgium

In a tiny country that calls itself “Beer Paradise” without hyperbole, where you could drink in a different world class beer bar every night for a year or two, this is the one where I would go if I could go to only one. You should too. I insist. But first, you have to find it. It is located in the heart of Belgium’s most picturesque city (alas more touristy now than when I first started going). Brugge is a Medieval time capsule that is a feast for the walker as Staminee De Garre is for the beer lover. On your first pass, you’ll probably miss De Garre, the tiny pedestrian alley that leads to the front door.
When you find the alley and find the door, you’ll probably ask your companions whether this can really be the right place, but as you step inside, you’ll know that you have arrived, and that you have arrived in a place where you can relax in the rich, intimate, understated atmosphere with the three things that make such an experience sublime – extraordinary beer, a bite to eat, and good friends. You supply the latter and your hosts will supply the rest. There are “only” around 130 beers on the menu, but they are carefully selected from throughout Belgium. You’ll see old favorites and usual suspects, but best of all, you and your friends will meet new friends among the selections that are offered. You’ll find yourself thinking that it gets no better than this.


547 Haight Street, San Francisco, California

Inside ToronadoSan Francisco is a city with a beer scene as lively and nuanced as any in the world. This is, after all, where Fritz Maytag crafted Anchor Brewing into the first modern craft brewery, and ran it as such for more than a decade before Jack McAuliffe, Allen Paul and Buffalo Bill came along. Amid San Francisco’s constantly refreshing tapestry of microbreweries, nanobreweries and beer bars, there is one bar that is always on the list – as it has been since Dave Keene took it over a quarter century ago. To say that Toronado is the quintessential beer bar, is an understatement in the extreme. With a constantly changing selection of around four dozen handles, it is a place where even the most experienced connoisseur can always find an esoteric “something” or three that he or she has never sipped before. And speaking of handles, Keene has been collecting them for decades and has them displayed throughout the bar. I tried once, but had to stop counting at around a thousand.
Just about every beer ever brewed in the West has passed through these doors, as has just about every notable brewer. Vinnie Cilurzo from Russian River Brewing, the inventor of Pliny the Younger, a beer on most “top five in the world” lists was best man at Dave’s wedding – and yes, when Pliny makes his annual two-week appearance, they line up around the block at Toronado.

 U Fleku Pivovar

U FlekuKremencova 11, Prague, Czech Republic

How can you put a bar that serves only one kind of beer on a list of pubs that includes Staminee De Garre and Toronado? When that bar has been brewing and serving its beer ever since the third voyage of Christopher Columbus!
In business since 1499, it got its name from Jakub “Flek” Flekovsky, who bought the place in 1762. U Fleku is the world’s oldest brewpub, and their five prevent ABV Flekovsky Tmavy Lezak 13° dark lager gets a “94 outstanding” rating from
Step through the door beneath the old square clock on a cobbled street in Prague’s old town and you’ll find yourself in a jumbly-tumbly King Arthur’s castle labyrinth of rooms and hallways that lead you back into another century. One room is dark and mysterious, another bustling with music and dancing. One room is a high ceilinged beer hall, another is small and cozy. In one room they’re dining on Opékaná klobása and Flekovský guláš. In another, they are singing football songs. One moment, you discover that you’re hopelessly lost, but in the next, you realize that you don’t care. You’re at Flek’s, and they’ll take good care of you here. They’ve had half a millennium of practice.

Kauai Island Brewery

4350 Waialo Road, Port Allen, Hawaii

Kauai IslandSomeone asked me recently what beer I would take to a desert island. I asked whether I had a choice of islands. If I did, it would be Kauai, the least populated and most laid back of the main islands of the archipelago that is the fiftieth state. If I was able to pick the island, I wouldn’t take any beer. I’d just head out State Route 50, make a left on Waialo, and find myself – metaphorically as well as literally – at the “westernmost brewery in the world.”
I discovered the brewpub closest to this side of the International Dateline some time ago when they were about five miles farther west at an old coconut plantation in Waimea. A couple of years ago, Bret Larson and Dave Curry moved their operation to the present location across the road from Captain Andy, who has a tour boat operation not unlike the one that the Captain and Gilligan would’ve had if they hadn’t been – well, you know the story.
I recall with great fondness the day that Mike Bolos and I spent with Dave Curry in the cool fermenting room just before they reopened, sampling the whole lineup, and savoring especially his 3.8 percent ABV South Pacific Brown which had earned him a second place ribbon at the West Coast Brewers Festival.
In a few weeks, give or take a month or so, I expect to be laid back on Waialo Road, watching the sun crawl through the cumulous on the horizon and settle into the fiery red Pacific while I sip a 6.3.






What can one say about apple pie?

Carl Sagan said,
“If you wish to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first invent the universe.”

Honeycrisp Apples

Honeycrisp Apples

Eugene Field said,
“But I, when I undress me
Each night, upon my knees
Will ask the Lord to bless me
With apple-pie and cheese.”

Golden Delicious Apples

Golden Delicious Apples

Jane Austen said,
“Good apple pies are a considerable part of our domestic and happiness.”

Braeburn Apples

Braeburn Apples

Johnny Cash said,
“Of emotions, of love, of breakup, of love and hate and death and dying, mama, apple pie and the whole thing. It covers a lot of territory, country music does.”

Granny Smith Apples

Granny Smith Apples

Today, in honor of Carl, Eugene, Jane and Johnny, Sweet Leisure tells you how to make an out-of-this-world—truly heavenly apple pie that will insure domestic and other dining happiness and have everyone singing your praises.



Yield: One nine-inch pie.

2 cups flour
1 teaspoon salt
14 tablespoons hydrogenated vegetable shortening
6 tablespoons ice water
Additional flour for rolling dough

6 to 10 (depending on size) firm pie apples, peeled, cored and sliced (See NOTE)
1/2 cup butter
1/2 firmly packed cup brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/4 cup water

NOTE: Apples to use: Either all Granny Smith or a mixture of Granny Smith and Honeycrisp, Braeburn, andGolden Delicious.

Apple Signs

Make dough for crust: Mix flour and salt in a medium-size mixing bowl. Distribute shortening over top of flour mixture, putting each tablespoon in a different place. With a pastry blender or finger tips, quickly and lightly work shortening into flour until particles are in coarse crumbs.
Sprinkle ice water over crumbs, putting each tablespoon in a different place. Stir lightly with a fork to form a dough. Knead dough once or twice until it is smooth.
Cut dough in half, form each half into a ball and flatten slightly. Wrap each flattened ball in waxed paper and refrigerate until well chilled.

Lightly sprinkle flour over a flat surface. Put one portion of chilled dough on the surface and roll into a circle, about 11-inches in diameter. Transfer dough to a 9-inch pie pan/plate by rolling dough onto the rolling pin and unrolling it into the pan, letting excess dough hang over edge of pan. Gently press dough into the pan.

Fill dough-lined pan with apples, mounding apples slightly.

Make lattice top. (Keep in mind, the top does not have to be professionally perfect. The homemade look works for a homemade pie.) On a floured surface, with a floured rolling pin, roll remaining dough ball into an 11-inch circle. With a pizza cutter or small sharp knife, cut the circle into even 1/2- inch wide strips.

Roll Dough and Cut Into Strips
Remove one long strip of dough from the center of the cut circle. Place the strip over the apples in the center of the pie. Remove every other strip of dough from the cut circle and lay the strips, over the top of the apples equal distance from each other, in the same direction of the of the first strip, with the longest pieces in the center and shortest piece at the edge of pan.
Now gently fold every other strip on the pie back halfway from the center.
Remove the longest remaining strip from the cut circle and place across the center of the pie at right angles to the strips already there. Pull the folded strips back straight over the new strip.

Making Lattice Top
Fold back the strips that were not folded before and lay another strip crosswise over the pie and replace the folds. Repeat alternately folding, adding strips and unfolding, filling one side of the pie and then the other.

Weaving Crust
With a knife trim excess dough edges of the pie pan. Crimp around the edge of the pan, pressing the top crust to bottom crust in a tight decorative pattern.

Heat oven to 450°F.

Melt butter in a small saucepan set over medium heat. Add remaining ingredients and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Slowly pour hot mixture over apples through holes in the top of the lattice dough.

Caramel Filling
Place a square of foil on bottom rack of oven, directly under pie to catch juices.
Place pie in the center of the preheated 450°F oven for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350°F and bake until top of pie is golden brown, about 45 minutes more. (To prevent over browning and insure apples cook properly, place foil or an empty pie pan upside down on pie for last 10 minutes of baking.)

Best Ever Caramel Apple Pie by Susan Manlin Katzman







As you know, after World War II the United States, Great Britain, the Soviet Union and France divided Germany into four occupied zones. 

Berlin was encased in the Soviet section, but due to the importance of the city as the capital of Germany and center of the Nazi regime, the allies also divvied up the city. The United States, Great Britain and France took West Berlin. The Soviet Union claimed East Berlin.

Flags of the Allies
West Berlin flourished. East Berlin did not, and hundreds of thousands of East Berliners fled to the West.
To stop the exodus, the German Democratic Republic (GDR), in 1961, closed all borders and built a 100-mile concrete wall running through the center of Berlin and encircling West Berlin. Life behind the Wall in East Berlin became prison-like repressive and remained so for the next 28 years.
And then on November 9, 1989, Berlin’s border doors burst open as suddenly as they had slammed closed, releasing a surprised and euphoric public.

Painting in East Side Gallery
November 9, 2014, marks the 25th anniversary of the fall of the the Wall. Of course, much has happened in the past 25 years, but the Wall remains a key piece of world history and an important component to understanding not only Berlin and the Cold War, but also the horrors of repression and joys of freedom.
If you are lucky enough to be touring Berlin—between eating, drinking, clubbing and letting loose, you must visit some of the Wall sites and attractions. Don’t miss the:


This main memorial site of German division—an open air complex stretching 1.4 kilometres along a former border strip—shows a section of the Berlin Wall left from 1989, a watchtower and the death-strip area, helping visitors understand the many-layered system of the East German border fortification. Exhibits include a tribute to the Victims of Communist Tyranny and a Window of Remembrance.

Berlin Wall Memorial


At the Berlin Wall Memorial



Situated within sight of where the famous Checkpoint Charlie border crossing stood, the Berlin Wall Museum charts the Wall’s history and showcases the different methods people used to escape from the East.

Checkpoint Charlie
A few steps away, an information pavilion, named for the airplane black box that reveals recorded information after an accident, provides in-depth information about the Cold War and it’s effect on world.

Black Box Kalter Krieg by Susan Manlin Katzman



This facility offers a fascinating, if disturbing, look at the main political prison run by the East German Ministry of State Security, known as the Stasi.

Former Stasi Prison by Susan Manlin Katzman

The complex’s museum, opened in 2013, offers nearly 500 objects retelling the experiences of those imprisoned.

Museum at the Former Stasi Prison



On the site of a train, S-bahn and U-ban station used as a border crossing, this museum is named the “palace of tears” as it was the border crossing where western visitors said good-bye to their East German family and friends forbidden to travel. Exhibitions here illustrate the impact of division on everyday life in Germany through personal stories.

College at the Palace of Tears by Susan Manlin Katzman



This much photographed open-air memorial features a nearly mile-long portion of the original Berlin Wall painted, in 1990, by 118 artists from 21 different countries (and a slew of others who added graffiti). The paintings document not only the Wall, but also the joy of freedom.

East Side Gallery by Susan Manlin Katzman

Panels at the East Side Gallery

Collage of panels at the East Side Gallery

Save Our Earth from the East Side Gallery 

 For more information visit:




Randy TankersleyRandy Tankersley is a self confessed history nut. He is also a complex, creative man with a gift for storytelling. His storytelling takes many forms. He used storytelling while working as a broadcast photojournalist for ABC News Midwest bureau—a job that brought him to St Louis in 1988. He excels at “visually branded storytelling through social media,” for Tankersley Productions, Inc., his own video production company specializes in corporate communications and commercial and industrial marketing. And he brings his love of history and storytelling together in STL Lost and Found, an entertaining audio walking tour guide of St. Louis that he created for locals and tourist alike.

Product-ShotHand held and easy to use, STL Lost & Found divulges the fascinating facts and backgrounds of St. Louis’s top attractions. One can buy STL Lost & Found at many retail outlets throughout the city and from iTunes. Check  HERE for more information.
Last but not least, Randy shared his storytelling magic with Sweet Leisure. In Randy’s own words:

St. Louis Lost and Found© – True Tales of St. Louis

St. Louis is a treasure trove of historical tidbits and interesting facts. The St. Louis Lost and Found walking tour explores many of these interesting tidbits as guests explore the Gateway Mall area in downtown St. Louis. I’ve included some of that information here below and other things I just didn’t have room enough to include on the actual tour. So I hope you enjoy your abbreviated tour of interesting facts about St Louis.

Wainwright Building

IMG_0164Edison’s lightbulb, Henry Ford’s model T and Louis Sullivan’s Wainwright Building all have something in common? They are all firsts! In each of these cases others had made significant progress in their discoveries, yet it was these men that achieved what actually and practically worked. Edison didn’t invent the first light bulb, he invented the first practical light bulb that worked. Henry Ford didn’t invent the automobile, nor was he the first to use an assembly line. He was the first to put these two things together and the result was a revolutionized American industry. Louis Sullivan didn’t design the first tall building. He designed the first modern skyscraper to which all other skyscrapers would be modeled.
You can find Edison’s light bulb and Ford’s first Model T at the Smithsonian in Washington D.C.. But the only place you can see Louis Sullivan’s Wainwright Building is in downtown St. Louis at Seventh and Chestnut Streets. Although it seems quite simple today to look at a building and know what a tall building should look like, just remember, that was not always the case. There always had to be a first and St. Louis has it.

Planter’s Punch

Planters Punch 2Here’s an arguably St. Louis first. A fruity mellow rum cocktail called planter’s punch. Although today you may not be aware of this drink, it was popularized in the United States over a century ago. Like many cocktails of late it seems to be making a resurgence. So why does St. Louis claim this particular cocktail, you may ask?
It so happens that on the corner of Fourth and Chestnut a grand hotel called the Planter’s House Hotel once stood. During the 1800s anyone who was anyone stayed there. Such notables included Abraham Lincoln, Charles Dickens and Buffalo Bill. Inside the hotel was a popular watering hole where everyone met for drinks. Behind the bar stood a heavy set gentleman with a jolly disposition and a handle bar mustache who greeted each fellow with, “Hey gent, what’ll ya have?” His name was Jerry Thomas, the bartender at the Planter’s House Hotel. He wrote the book on serving cocktails, really! He wrote the first book ever on mixing drinks, The Bon-Vivant’s Companion. This is the same guide many bartender’s use today.
After tending bar at the Planter’s House for a few years, Thomas left St. Louis and tended bar in many of the major cities of the U.S. before returning to his native New York. Because of his outgoing personality, Mr. Thomas became extremely famous and his drinks were unmatched. Captains of Industry and celebrities alike referred to Mr. Thomas as “The Professor.” Although there is no direct evidence other than the 1933 edition of Bon Vivant’s Companion stating that planter’s punch was created here in St. Louis, it only stands to reason because it bears the name of the hotel of which he was employed. Although others lay claim to the drink, a plaque commemorating Mr. Thomas and his drink has been placed on a granite slab outside the Bank of America building where the hotel once stood.
The Planter’s House Bar located at 1000 Mississippi Avenue bears the same name of this historic hotel and serves many of the cocktails in Mr. Thomas’ book, including of course, you guessed it, planter’s punch. A soon to be revived St. Louis favorite, or so they hope, me too.

Chief Pontiac

Pontiac-chief-artist-impression-414pxDowntown St. Louis is currently undergoing major change with the construction of the CityArchRiver project. Included in the project are plans to demolish the Arch parking garage and relocate parking to other garages in the downtown area. Among those garages is the Stadium East Garage. That in and of itself is not interesting. What is interesting however is that beneath the Stadium East Garage is the burial site of Chief Pontiac. While most American’s are not familiar with the Chief, they may remember that an automobile was named after him and they would be right.
Chief Pontiac was an eighteenth century Osama Bin Laden. Pontiac was responsible for organizing Indian tribes from the Great Lakes to the lower Mississippi Valley. With the help of the French, these tribes were organized to fight the British army and push back British incursion into Indian lands. United, he was convinced tribal nations could limit further British expansion. That same territory would one day become the western United States and unfortunately for him, he failed. Not only did he fail, but shortly after signing a peace agreement with the British, a member of the Peoria tribe murdered him in Cahokia, IL. Pontiac was then buried in disgrace where the East Stadium Garage now stands.
So… when visitor’s park their car in the East Stadium Garage, they are parking on top of Pontiac’s grave, a disgraced Indian Chief who dedicated his life to limiting western expansion into tribal lands. Individuals parking there are there to commemorate that westward expansion, adding insult to injury to Chief Pontiac who fought against that very thing… and so it goes.

Henry Shaw and City Garden

Being “green” is nothing new to St. Louis. It all began in the mid 1800’s with an implement merchant by the name of Henry Shaw. Shaw made his fortune in St Louis as a young entrepreneur selling hardware to early pioneers who set out from St Louis to conquer the West. Having made his fortune, it was his desire to give back to the people of St Louis by creating an unrivaled world class Botanical Garden. Located at 4344 Shaw Boulevard, “The Garden”, as it is affectionately referred to by most St. Louisans is officially known as The Missouri Botanical Garden and is ranked by the Travel Channel as the best Botanical Garden in America. It features 34 unique gardens, the least of which include the English Woodland, Japanese and Victorian Gardens.
The influence of the Garden can be seen throughout St. Louis in its home and institutional landscapes. No better example of this is the popular City Garden at Eighth and Market in downtown St. Louis. The Missouri Botanical Garden assisted in designing, creating and implementing this urban oasis. It is a joy to the senses alive with native flowers, refreshing fountains and creative outdoor works of art.
Mr. Shaw may not have understood today’s idea of what being “green” is, but he certainly was among the first in St. Louis to understand the importance of a “green” community. He felt urban dwellers needed a refuge from the City and an escape to Mother Nature. Locals and tourist alike can sample a little of that here at the City Garden just a few blocks west of the Gateway Arch. You won’t be disappointed.

City Park


Liberty Bell on Gateway Arch grounds

St. Loios ArchAsk most people and they will tell you that you will find the Liberty Bell in Philadelphia and that is true. But were you aware that you could also find it in St. Louis? You can! But not for much longer. Eero Sarrinen, the designer of the Gateway Arch, hid the Liberty Bell in his original design. Although most St. Louisans are unaware, you can still find it there today. The Arch ground renovations however are now underway and will permanently alter that design. So you will need to hurry if you would like to take one last look before it’s gone. What you’ll need to do is go down and take the tram to the top. Once there, find an open window facing the City. Look directly down and you will see sidewalks leading to the present day entrance’s on both the North and South legs. Did you notice the shape of the sidewalks outline the shape of a bell? Eero said that bell outline represented the Liberty Bell. Still, don’t see it? Look to the crest of the hill closest to the City. At that crest the sidewalk suddenly ends for no apparent reason. From the ground it looks like a mistake, but from the top of the Arch you can see that it is the yoke of the bell. Have fun. Take a look for yourself. But hurry, it won’t be there much longer. After it disappears you will have to rely on imagination.





They are like fraternal twins with features in common, but totally different looks.
As to similarities, both hotels sit in the spiffy Eighth Arrondissement of Paris, a short stroll to the Champs Elysées. Both are relatively new or newly recreated and boast five star designations. Both offer comfortable, luxurious stays at rates less than “palace” hotels and both wear divine, design-rich decor.
That said, each hotel sports a unique personality.
One is large and multi-purposed; the other small and intimate. One reflects the glamour and sophistication of 1930s Paris; the other couldn’t be more 21st century, au courant contemporary.

First let’s talk about


L'Hôtel du Collectionneur

Located at 51-57 rue de Courcelles, the seven story L’Hôtel Du Collectionneur contains 478 rooms and suites; a full service spa; an elegant restaurant; a chic bar; a large central garden; a slew of meeting rooms and event venues; and an “executive lounge,” available to those staying in certain rooms and suites.




Stairway at Hôtel du Collectionneur by Susan Manlin Katzman

Stairway to Lobby





Restaurant Le Safran

Restaurant Le Safran


Purple Bar

Purple Bar

Built in 2004, the hotel operated under the Hilton banner as the Hilton Arc de Triomphe until the owner, Albert Cohen, reclaimed the property in 2012. One might think that the Hilton image and prior business focus would linger, but au contraire, Cohen swept away all remnants of the chain and polished the property to a brilliance. Today, the hotel is a member of the prestigious Preferred Hotels & Resorts brand, which represents distinctive properties around the world, and it’s glamour is reflected in two intertwining themes of the 1930s: transatlantic liners and Art Deco. 
One sees the ocean liner motif represented in architectural details throughout the hotel.
As to Art Deco, it shows up everywhere—even in the hotel’s new name.
(The original Hôtel d’un Collectionneur refers to a pavilion built for the Paris Exhibition of 1925 to showcase new art labeled “Art Deco.”)
The hotel’s decorators filled both guest rooms and public spaces with Art Deco objects and artifacts, some original, others reproduced. Of special interest are custom-made items that designers created for the hotel using contemporary materials and authentic designs.

Hall And Art Hanging in Hall

Hallway to Guest Rooms

Hall and art that hangs in hall.

Decor details

Decor Details

L’Hôtel Du Collectionneur appeals to a wide variety of travelers for a ton of different reasons.
Groups like the lovely lobby, accommodating staff, well-appointed rooms and bountiful buffet breakfast.

Comfortable Rooms

Comfortable Rooms


Lobby Flowers

Lobby Flowers

Business people like the free Wi-Fi, the business facilities, the knowledgeable and accommodating concierge. Families like the the connecting rooms as well as the kid-friendly promotions and programs. And sophisticated leisure travellers like the Deco decor; the great bouquets of flowers filling lobbies; the room amenities; the user-friendly bathrooms; the breakfast, snack and cocktail service in the executive lounge;….well…let’s cut to the chase…most guests like everything.

 Three words to describe the vibe of L’Hôtel Du Collectionneur: graceful, artistic, multidimensional.


 Hôtel Vernet

Hôtel Vernet

One certainly can’t tell from looking at Hôtel Vernet from the street that inside would yield such light,bright contemporary pizzaz. It’s only after walking through the glass doors at 25 rue Vernet, and standing for a moment in the lobby, for the juxtaposition of old and new to reveal its magic. 
Built in 1913, the structure functioned as a traditional hotel until Besse Signature Group (a family-owned French company specializing in design hotels) bought the property in 2013. The savvy new owners hired famed interior designer François Champsaur to reinvent the space and the result is striking.
Elements of the original structure remain intact. Marble floors and lobby colonnades, high ceilings, a majestic skylight designed by Gustave Eiffel and stained-glass windows in a curving stairwell provide an elegant frame for the new decor.


Gustave Eiffel's Glass Dome

Gustave Eiffel’s Glass Dome

With 50 rooms and suites and public space limited to a discreet reception area, several salons plus a bar and restaurant, the property retains an intimate air. Staying at the hotel feels like staying in the private home of a wealthy grande dame who let her hipster, art-loving grandchild move in and take over.






Contemporary art fills the hotel, showing up here, there, everywhere—in carpets and ceiling frescos—in framed prints hanging on mirrors and walls—in pleated copper screens and inventive lighting fixtures.




Ceiling Fresco

Ceiling Fresco


The undulating bar seems sculpted from a slab of marble.



Blue and green dining banquettes circle the hotel’s restaurant, drawing guests into sacred space of color underneath Eiffel’s stained-glass dome.

The V Restaurant

The V Restaurant

Oak dominates guest rooms. Massive oak doors provide entrance, divide room space and close closets. Oak panels cover walls and stand in as bed headboards. The oak, combined with shades of grey carpeting and white linens, table tops and wall inserts, provide a restful pallet accented with splashes of stimulating color in woolen throws and decorative pillows. 





Bathrooms of wood and Carrere marble maintain the clean-line luxury theme.



And in keeping with the five-star designation, Hotel Vernet’s guest rooms sport the latest technology, e.g., state-of-the-art flat screen T.V.s, coffee makers and dramatic futuristic brass bed lamps.

Decor Details

Decor Details

The haute modern Vernet attracts such guests as interior designers, fashionistas, hipsters and sophisticates.   Three words to describe the vibe: trendy, hot, urbane.





Poster from the Red Star Line MuseumWhat do Albert Einstein, Vito Corleone, Irving Berlin, Golda Meir and U.S Navy Rear Admiral Hyman Rickover have in common?

All immigrated to America on the Red Star Line, an ocean-crossing passenger line transporting some 2.5 million European emigrants to New York and Philadelphia between 1873 and 1934. 

How do I know this?

I visited the Red Star Line Museum in Antwerp, Belgium, and so should anyone in the vicinity, as the museum is not only informative, but also interesting and important to understanding the world as it is today.

Exterior or the Red Star Line Museum

Officials call the facility a “European migration museum,” and displays do feature human migration in general, but the museum’s scope is larger, focusing on the history of the shipping company (an ancestor of today’s cruise ships), and emphasizing the emigrant experience.

Although first class first-class travel receives mention, steerage takes center stage, as the museum occupies the space of the shipping company’s original departure warehouses for third-class passengers and exhibits follow the footsteps of the huddled masses yearning to breath free from troubled Europe to the door of America.

Photo of Emigrants on Display at the Red Star Line Museum in Antwerp, Belgium


Through photos, memorabilia, testimonies, maps, and a variety of interactive displays, visitors learn that many of the passengers, seeking relief from poverty, prejudice and persecution, came from Russia, Eastern Europe and the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Antwerp Central train station built between 1895 and 1905.

Antwerp Central train station, built between 1895 and 1905, was first stop for many Red Star Line passengers.

 That they purchased tickets (which is said to have cost the amount a laborer earned working 75 days—or the equivalent of $1,300 in today’s money) at agencies located in various parts of Europe, buying a “packaged deal,” that included a train trip to Antwerp and a modest hotel.



Once at the dock, third-class passengers left all of their belongings to be fumigated and sterilized, while they endured a rigorous cleansing program and meticulous medical exams that determined it they were fit for the journey.

Photo of Passengers at the Red Star Line Museum in Antwerp, Belgiium
Ship models and model-cross sections shed light on of life aboard the vessels, which was luxurious in first class, but difficult for steerage, where passengers shared cramped, communal cabins for journeys that could last 10 or more days.

Ship model at the Red Star Line Museum in Antwerp, Belgium



Passenger photos at the Red Star Line Museum in Antwerp, Belgium
A walk through the museum helps us understand the melting pot of emotions that must have been shared by the travelers—fear, excitement, despair, hope, sadness and joy associated with spirits unshackled and sent soaring.

Irving Berlin's Piano on display at the Red Star Line Museum in Antwerp, Belgium

Irving Berlin’s piano sits in the room at the end of the historic displays symbolizing success of the emigrants.

Marketers are quick to claim there would be no “White Christmas” or “Easter Parade” without the shipping line. But the world would lack so much more—perhaps even you, as millions of Red Star Line passengers landed in America and planted the roots of family trees that populate our great country from sea to shining sea.

As to Vito Corleone, of course we know that he is fictional, however in the movie “Godfather Part II,” he wore a Red Star Line company identification badge upon arriving in New York, attesting to the importance of the line to the times.

From the Movie "Godfather Part II"







Solace for a sweltering summer: 


Yield: 8 servings.

4 cucumbersCucumbers

Olive oil

About 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill

2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

4 cups unflavored yogurt

2 cups ice water

Fresh dill for garnishIced Cucumber Soup by Susan Manlin Katzman

Peel cucumbers and cut in half lengthwise. Remove seeds. Slice cucumbers, crosswise, into very thin pieces. Put cucumber pieces in a colander. Drizzle olive oil over cucumber pieces and toss gently. Add dill, garlic, salt and pepper. Toss well. Set colander over a large bowl; cover with plastic or foil, refrigerated and allow cucumbers to drain 1 to 3 hours. 

Put drained cucumbers in a bowl. Add yogurt and water. Cover and refrigerate several hours to overnight. 

Correct seasoning before serving. Serve chilled, garnished with fresh dill.





Ruffin Prevost

Ruffin Prevost

Ruffin Prevost is a Cody, Wyoming-based reporter who covers the state for Reuters wire service and also operates the Yellowstone Gate, an independent, online new service  focusing on activities, dining, lodging and breaking news around Yellowstone National Park. A busy man, Ruffin is also the founder of Cody Local, a nonprofit aimed at educating visitors and locals about the benefits of supporting sustainable local food suppliers, crafts and small businesses.

Ruffin knows the ins and outs of Cody and surroundings. He also has the scoop on the best food of the area—an expertise no doubt enhanced by his wife Michele. new-juniper-logo-01 

The woman behind the man (as the saying goes) worked as a professional event and wedding planner before opening a fine wine and liquor shop. Business boomed necessitating a move which came with an expansion. Today, Michele’s Juniper: Bar + Market + Bistro, sits in the heart of Cody and sports a boutique wine and spirits shop, cocktail lounge, small plates eatery and cigar bar (see more below).

The Prevosts are Cody residents, and both are seriously involved with food, but Ruffin is the writer, so we turned to him to write a Sweet Leisure post on favorite places to eat in the city. Here, in his own words: 



The town of Cody was founded just over a century ago by famed Wild West showman William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody and other enterprising pioneers and speculators. It started as (and somewhat remains) a frontier town at the eastern edge of Yellowstone National Park, so fresh and innovative food have never been a big part of the culinary heritage of this town of 10,000. 

 But all that is changing, as a local food culture is beginning to flow like a Yellowstone hot spring, bubbling up from below after a long period of percolation. As with touring Yellowstone’s natural wonders, it’s worth getting off the beaten path and going out of your way to find some of the lesser-known spots. In Cody, many of the best eateries are family-owned, and are also local favorites during the off-season.

Trail Shop Inn & Restaurant

Early visitors from Cody making the trip into Yellowstone National Park often stopped after their first day on horseback in the tiny mountain community of Wapiti, located midway between the park and Cody. Since 1922, The Trail Shop has a been a favorite summer spot to enjoy a bottle of fine wine and a classic Rocky Mountain meal of trout, steak or other hearty fare. Plan your meal or cocktails for sunset and enjoy a spectacular view from the Trail Shop porch, as the mountains glow reddish-brown in the late summer sun.

Trail Shop Restaurant


Whole Foods Trading Co.

In business long before the similarly named national grocery store chain, Cody’s Whole Foods is part restaurant, part coffee shop and part health food store. But it’s all good. With a focus on fresh, local ingredients, you’ll always find a creative take on old favorites. The cooking is simple and healthy presented with pride and respect for the ingredients and the eater. Try the fresh, daily soup specials or the great standby of a pork belly sandwich with sweet potato chips.



8th Street at The Ivy

This hotel restaurant is one of the newest spots in town, but it was started by Buffalo Bill’s great-grandson. If you’re looking for a break from Cody’s cowboy culture, 8th Street is a good bet. It’s contemporary decor and nouvelle cuisine menu would seem at home in almost any city in America. The appetizers are usually better tasting (and a better value) than the entrees. But the real star is a dazzling selection of desserts created by a top-notch pastry chef, so save room for something sweet at the end of your meal.

Desserts at 8th Street at the Ivy

Desserts at 8th Street at the Ivy


Heritage Bakery and Bistro

You might not always score a table at this tiny, cozy bakery and lunch spot, but it’s worth driving by just to see. Heritage roasts their own coffee and there are always fresh-baked cookies, pastries and other goodies. All the soups, salads and sandwiches are homemade, so don’t expect anything quick or pre-fab. Good food takes a while.

Heritage Bakery and Bistro by Susan Manlin Katzman


Cassie’s Supper ClubCassie's Supper Club

The stories about Cassie’s early days are legendary, and it’s fun to realize you’re dining in what was once a bordello started in the 1920s at what was then the far edge of town. Cody has since grown to engulf Cassie’s and beyond, but the restaurant, bar and dance floor maintain a feeling of spacious detachment from the hubbub of downtown. This is the place to go if you want a classic steak dinner with live Western music and a nightlife scene that attracts bankers and bull riders, realtors and roughnecks. Spend some time exploring the huge and sprawling space to take in all the memorabilia that tells the story of nearly 100 years of Western hospitality.


 Willow Fence Tea Room

You’re not likely to run into any of the gunslingers from Cody’s daily mock gunfight at the Willow Fence Tea Room. But if you’re looking for a favorite ladies’ spot for a light lunch or a delightful tea in a cozy setting, Willow Fence is a refreshing change from the dusty trail. Soups, sandwiches, salads and a wide selection of teas to sample make it a good mid-day or afternoon break from your Wild West action.

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Burger Beat 
Inside Silver Dollar Bar & Grill

Inside Silver Dollar Bar & Grill

A great burger and a cold beer are a favorite combination for any summer trip to Yellowstone country, and Cody’s Sheridan Avenue has a few spots that offer both. The Silver Dollar Bar & Grill  is a biker bar that serves a great grilled hamburger. Pair it with a Bent Nail IPA from nearby Red Lodge Brewery and your only regret will be that you can’t have one every day. Just a block to the west, the Proud Cut Saloon cooks a great bison burger, especially if you add cheese and bacon. But you’ll really love the home fries on the side. Ask for a glass of Wyoming Whiskey, distilled in nearby Kirby, Wyo. to wash it down. And at the east end of the street, Wyoming Rib & Chop House  offers what may be the only chance you’ll get to enjoy a delicious yak burger. Made from locally raised yak, you’ll love this lean, delicious meat that’s sweeter than beef. Enjoy it with a glass of cabernet from Cody’s own Buffalo Jump Winery.

Wyoming Rib & Chop House by Susan Manlin Katzman


Juniper: Bar + Market + Bistro

Granted, I’m a bit biased, since my wife owns the place, but what’s not to love about a wine shop that has a cool cocktail lounge offering more than 100 whiskies by the glass? Sure, you can grab a light bite like homemade hummus and pita chips, or a charcuterie board packed with a sampling of game meats like antelope and elk. But the real attraction is hand-crafted specialty cocktails and the town’s deepest library of premium wines, micro-brew beers and top-shelf spirits. Enjoy your drink in the lounge, on the back patio or in the ventilated cigar lounge. Maybe I’ll see you there, and we can trade stories about your latest Yellowstone adventure…or my next one.

Juniper Bartender

Bartender at Juniper

 Cody It's Fun by Susan Manlin Katzman




D’Chez Eux and Perfect Roast Chicken

Plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose,”  an epigram coined in 1849 by French journalist Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr, has traveled through time, been translated into different languages (English: the more things change, the more they stay the same) and morphed into a proverb. Used by a variety of people around the world, including statesmen, writers, moms and rockers (Bon Jovi), the statement fits many situations, but it especially rings true in it’s native tongue when applied to the Paris restaurant D’Chez Eux. 

D'Chez Eux by Susan Manlin Katzman

Restaurant D’Chez Eux started life in the 18th century as a coaching inn where travelers on the way to Paris would spend the night and enjoy a worthy meal.

Today the restaurant still serves worthy meals to travelers (among them Bill Clinton, Richard Nixon and Vladimir Putin), to statesmen (François Mitterrand, Jacques Chirac and Nicolas Sarkozy), and to a variety of food-loving locals, writers, moms and songbirds. 

The more D’Chez Eux changes (owners, staff and a plunge into social media via Website and Facebook), the more it stays the same. 

For much of its history, D’Chez Eux has enjoyed:

The same location at 2 Avenue Lowendal (Paris 7ème).

Restaurant D'Chez Eux in the Rain by Susan Manlin Katzman


The same cozy country ambiance. 

Inside and Out of D'Chez Eux

Inside and Out of D’Chez Eux


The same traditional menu with the same popular entrées (starters).

Foie gras de canard truffé de l’Auberge (Home-made truffled duck foie gras)

Foie gras de canard truffé de l’Auberge (Home-made truffled duck foie gras)


Cuisses de grenouilles fraîches, pointe d’ail (Pan-sautéed fresh frog legs in garlic butter)

Cuisses de grenouilles fraîches, pointe d’ail (Pan-sautéed fresh frog legs in garlic butter)


Escargots de Bourgogne en pots au beurre d’ail et d’echalote (Burgundy snails in shallots and garlic butter)

Escargots de Bourgogne en pots au beurre d’ail et d’echalote (Burgundy snails in shallots and garlic butter)


The same type excellent staff. 

First Maître (head honcho, general manager, keeper of the keys) Dominique Palvadeau

First Maître (head honcho, general manager, all around charmer) Dominique Palvadeau

The same good wine list; the same huge portions; and the same high prices (read on).

Last but not least, the restaurant boasts the same, famed, acclaimed speciality of the house: Poulet rôti “La coucou de Rennes” race ancienne, aux girolles (Roast free-range chicken with fresh chanterelle mushrooms.) Cost for two listed at 98.00€ or about $131.

Poulet rôti “La coucou de Rennes” race ancienne, aux girolles (Roast free-range chicken with fresh chanterelle mushrooms.

Poulet rôti “La coucou de Rennes” race ancienne, aux girolles (Roast free-range chicken with fresh chanterelle mushrooms.)


Chef Bertrand Gautreau

Bertrand Gautreau

 Chef Bertrand Gautreau freely shares the restaurant’s original recipe, even inviting those interested to the kitchen to watch him cook. That said, the Coucou de Rennes, is an ancient breed of chicken raised today by about a dozen farmers producing about 30,000 chickens a year. The quality and taste of the meat of this chicken is considered unparalleled, which means that even with detailed instructions, D’Chez Eux’s roast chicken will be impossible to duplicate unless you start with the same breed bird.

On the other hand, find the best quality, free-range, farm-raised chicken, follow this recipe and you can produce a tasty facsimile.



Yield: 2 to 4 servings.

Coucou de Rennes ready for the oven at D'Chez Eux

Coucou de Rennes ready for the oven at D’Chez Eux

One 2- to 3-pound top quality, farm-raised chicken

Kosher salt

Freshly ground pepper

About 2 tablespoons butter

About 3 cups chanterelle mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed and if necessary, sliced.

About 3/4 cup rich, flavorful broth

About 1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Rinse chicken, then dry very well with paper towels, inside and out. 

Salt and pepper the chicken’s cavity. Twist wing tips behind back and tie legs together. Place chicken, breasts side up, in a roasting pan. Sprinkle salt and pepper over chicken. 

Chanterelles ready to cook at D'Chez Eux

Chanterelles ready to cook at D’Chez Eux

Place chicken in preheated oven, and roast until evenly browned and cooked through, 40 to 50 minutes. (While roasting, turn the chicken, back side up, so that it browns evenly, then turn, again, breast side up to finish roasting.  Baste with pan juices, if the chicken seems dry.) 

Shortly before chicken is cooked, melt about 1 tablespoon butter in a sauté pan, add chanterelles and sauté

Chanterelles cooking at D'Chez Eux

Chanterelles cooking at D’Chez Eux

over high heat a few minutes to release any water. Cover mushrooms with a little broth, bring to a boil, and reduce broth by half.

Remove chicken from pan (put on a cutting board). 

Deglaze roasting pan with broth and add to mushrooms. Boil mushrooms at high heat to reduce liquid to about  1/3 cup. Swirl in a little butter and sprinkle with chopped parsley. 

Place chicken on top of mushrooms and serve immediately.

Poulet rôti La coucou de Rennes ready to serve at D'Chez Eux

Poulet rôti La coucou de Rennes ready to serve at D’Chez Eux





Albuquerque, New Mexico


Ann Arbor, Michigan


Bangkok, Thailand


Cody, Wyoming

Cody It's Fun by Susan Manlin Katzman 


Denver, Colorado


Dijon, France


Little Rock, Arkansas



Los Angeles, California


Milwaukee, Wisconsin


Nashville, Tennessee


New Orleans, Louisiana

New-Orleans by CHRIS GRANGER.


Rome, Italy


Seattle, Washington

Stuttgart, Germany


Tel Aviv, Israel


Tucson, Arizona






Paris at Sunset by Susan Manlin Katzman 



 Albuquerque, New Mexico


Apalachicola, Florida


Canal de Bourgogne, France


Door County, Wisconsin




Hot Springs, Arkansas

Hot Springs National Park by Susan Manlin Katzman


Moss Landing, California

Moss Landing Harbor by Susan Manlin Katzman


Seattle, Washington


Taos, New Mexico


Tel Aviv, Israel


Turks and Caicos



Adler Thermae Spa Resort, Tuscany, Italy

Adler Thermae Spa Resort


Arlington Resort Hotel,  Hot Springs, Arkansas

The Arlington Resort Hotel & Spa by Susan Manlin Katzman


Ashford Castle, Cong, County Mayo, Ireland

Ashford Castle


Capital Hotel, Little Rock, Arkansas

Exterior of The Capital Hotel by Susan Manlin Katzman


Captain’s Inn, Moss Landing, California

The Captain's Inn in Moss Landing California


Château De Cîteaux La Cueillette, Meursault, France

Château De Cîteaux La Cueillette


Coombs House Inn, Apalachicola, Florida

Coombs House Inn


Grand Velas Riviera Maya, Mexico

Grand Velas


Lake Yellowstone Hotel, Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Facade of Lake Yellowstone Hotel by Susan Manlin Katzman


Mandarin Oriential Paris, France



Rosewood Little Dix Bay, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands

Serving Beach Drinks at Little Dix Bay


Saxon Hotel, Johannesburg, South Africa

Saxon Hotel


Tongabezi, Zambia, Africa



Wald & Schlosshotel Friedrichruhe, Germany

Wald & Schlosshotel Friedrichsruhe




Rail Europe

RailEurope Train by Susan Manlin Katzman


La Fresh Travel Products



St. Louis Walking Tour

STL Lost & Found




Copyright 2009-2013 by Susan Manlin Katzman. Author retains all electronic and publishing rights, except where express given permission has been granted. For information about utilizing any material from please contact Susan Manlin Katzman through the contact page listed above.