Elizabeth Helman Minchilli Picks:
Ten Best Restaurants in Rome

Elizabeth Helman Minchilli
Magazines, guidebooks, newspapers and the Internet all tout the best places to eat in Rome, but I have a better guide. I have direct access to Elizabeth Helman Minchilli, and she has the inside scoop.
Elizabeth leads the charmed Italian life. She was born in the United States, but has lived in Italy for 20 years, dividing her time between a rooftop apartment in Rome, and a villa in Umbria, where I’ve had the pleasure of staying. (Five bedrooms, olive grove, 40 varieties of roses and a pool make the villa my idea of heaven. Since she rents it out, you can visit heaven too.) Elizabeth travels through Italy gathering material for not only her articles, which she contributes to an enviable number of magazines, but also her books—six to date with Italian Rustic (Artisan, 2009) being her newest. Elizabeth is an authority on the best of the best Italian architecture, style, culture and food—which is why she tops my list of friends to call for restaurant recommendations.
So what are Elizabeth’s current favorite places to eat in Rome? Where would she suggest visitors try if they are headed to Rome the summer of 2010?
In her own words:
“It’s always hard choosing ‘the best’ of anything. While a lot of people complain about food in Rome, I find it’s hard to go wrong when going out to dinner here. In Florence and Venice it’s almost impossible to avoid tourist traps, but in Rome, it’s just not that hard to get a good plate of pasta. That said, I definitely have my favorites. The following are the places I go regularly, not in any particular order. I’ve tried to include a few in different neighborhoods since I imagine you’ll be touring around. For more Roman tips, visit my web site.
La Gensola
Piazza della Gensola 15
Tel: 06 581 6312
One of the best places to eat the freshest seafood in Rome. The other night we were there and the fish was delivered fresh from the boat, as we sat down at 8:30. By 8:45 we were dining on barely cooked sea scallops drizzled with aged balsamic and pasta tossed with chunks of fresh tuna and pine nuts. Dishes include such hard to find, and artisanal ingredients as saba from Emilia Romagna, collatura from Campania and small white beans from the hills of Lazio.
Urbana 47

Urbana
Via Urbana 47
06 478 84006
It’s not a coincidence that one of the most successful restaurant openings of the past few years happened in the ever-hipper Monti neighborhood. Walk past a handful of outside tables, to be welcomed by big over stuffed velvet armchairs. Mismatched tables and chairs are scattered over several loft-like rooms, including one that is completely open to the kitchen. There is something for everyone here, since service starts with breakfast and goes into the wee hours. Ingredients are organic and sourced locally, a forerunner of the “Zero Kilometro” or locavore movement in Rome. The menu changes seasonally, but this past fall we enjoyed pumpkin stuffed ravioli and vegetable ‘meatballs’ in a yogurt and pecorino sauce. Don’t miss their lunch buffet, a real bargain at 8 euros.
Taverna Dei Fori Imperiali
Via Madonna dei Monti 9
06 679 8643
Although it looks very touristy from the outside – red checked table clothes, dripping candle in Chianti bottle, etc.- this is actually a well-hidden secret. Don’t be fooled by the ordinary sounding menu posted by the front door. Chef Alessio always offers about a dozen specials, which are hard to choose from since they all sound so good! My favorite new addition is Fettuccine alla Romana, a pasta take on the venerable saltimboca. Homemade fettucine are tossed with prosciutto, pine nuts and sage. While the clientele is usually an assortment of locals and some tourists, Dustin Hoffman, Al Pacino and Robert De Niro dropped in during the film festival and New York Times critic Frank Bruni and San Francisco chef Gary Danko both recently ordered Alessio’s famous meatloaf.
La Vecchia Bottega del Vino
Via Santa Maria del Piano 9a/11
06 681 92 210
Anacleto Bleve, and his wife Tina, are responsible the high standard of today’s enotecas in Rome. They first opened their wine shop in Rome’s ghetto twenty years ago, before expanding to their newer – and grander – Casa Bleve, near Piazza Navona. The original enoteca, which regulars love as much for its cozy décor as for the excellent wines is still my favorite. Their warm and friendly service – and fair prices and ever-excellent food – makes this many Roman’s favorite enoteca.
Settembrini
Via Luigi Settembrini 25
06 323 2617
When head sommelier Luca Boccoli left Casa Bleve last year, he was quickly nabbed by this new restaurant, and many regulars followed him there. The softly lit dining room is mostly taken up by the food-laden counter, topped with cheeses, hams, salamis and a chilled bucket of half a dozen champagnes and proseccos. Known for its extensive wine list, the food is innovative, but simple, based on the best ingredients. Although you can make a meal of their artisanal cheeses, hams and salamis, save room for the fish. As a first course try papperdelle tossed with grouper – both raw and cooked. A fillet of ricciolo – a Mediterranean fish – was perfectly cooked with crispy skin, atop a bed of puréed zucchini and topped with fried zucchini strips. If you are too full for dessert share the selection of artisanal chocolates.
Perilli
Via Marmorata 39
06 574 4215
Closed Wed.
One of my all time favorite roman restaurants. Located in the Testaccio neighborhood, this is a real old fashioned roman restaurant, complete with old grumpy waiters. Extraordinary carbornara, amatricana and pagliata (a pasta made with unborn calf intenstines). Meat is also great, including whatever roasts they have that day, as well as various innards. A typical Roman experience.
Trattoria Monti
Via San Vito 13/a
06 4466 573
On of my favorites in Rome, although the place has been there for 30 years. Excellent food and wonderful friendly service. Look at the menu, but the specials (which are many) are what you should concentrate on. They usually do pigeon some way, which is always good. Do try the parmesan flan with lettuce sauce (listed under vegetarian dishes) as a antipasto. Also, their big tortolloni with a runny egg yolk inside is fantastic. Don’t miss their apple cake, a sort of pudding, for dessert.
Edy
Vicolo del Babuino 4
06 36 00 17 38
Closed Sunday
I only recently discovered this place, located on a small street not far from the Spanish steps. A very old fashioned trattoria that hasn’t been touched since the days of the Dolce Vita. It’s filled mostly with locals, including lots of antique dealers from the area. This is the place to try Roman specialties. I had a vitello tonnato that was great, not so easy to find these days in Rome. There are a few outside tables, but the wood panelled interior felt cool and shady on a summer day.
Ristorante Nerone
Via Delle Terme Di Tito, 96
06 4817952
You can’t come to Rome without visiting the Coliseum and the Roman Forum. Nerone is one of the handful of truly Roman trattoria that haven’t changed their interiors or their menu in the last thirty years. Offering the classics such as Spaghetti alla Carbonara and Vitello Saltimboca as well as a delicious array of antipasti. If you are lucky, nab a table with a view of the Coliseum, which looms a block away. Start with the self-serve antipasti buffet, which includes classics like grilled zucchini and frittata.
Bir & Fud
Via Benedetta 23 Trastevere
06 589 4016
This pizzeria is one of the hottest spots in Rome at the moment. The owner is one of the more highly regarded artisan beer makers in Italy and has a wide and very interesting selection. You can also order a ‘tasting’ menu of 5 beers. Pizzas are fantastic, made with top notch ingredients, but better yet are the other items which change daily. These include ‘fritti’, bruschette and things like suppli which are EXCELLENT! It does get noisy and crowded. To avoid that, get there on the early side, 7:30.”
AND DON’T FORGET COFFEE: CLICK HERE AND HERE FOR THE BEST IN ROME
