Lucy says that she took the recipe from a “redneck-lawyer, rouge-gourmand friend,” gave it a twist and put it on her menu where it thrives. Today she makes it in 20-gallon batches and still has trouble keeping up with demand.

Although Lucy serves the L.A. Caviar as an appetizer, the dish would shine as a crowd-pleasing side dish at barbecues and casual family gatherings and/or as a contribution salad at potluck parties and tailgate picnics.

L.A. (LOWER ALABAMA) CAVIAR

Yield: 20 to 25 servings as an appetizer; about 8 servings as a side dish or salad.

3/4 cup balsamic vinegar

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/4 cup granulated sugar

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

4 (15-ounce) cans black-eyed peas, rinsed and drained

1-1/2 cups cherry tomatoes, quartered

1 cup chopped green bell pepper

1 cup chopped red bell pepper

1 cup chopped yellow bell pepper

1 cup chopped red onion

1 cup finely chopped fresh parsley

Saltine crackers or tortilla chips

1. Make dressing by combining vinegar, oil, sugar, salt and pepper in a jar. Cover and shake jar vigorously to dissolve sugar. Set aside.

2. Place black-eyed peas in a large glass bowl. Add tomatoes, green, red and yellow peppers, onion and parsley.

3. Pour dressing over pea mixture and toss well to combine ingredients.

4. Cover and refrigerate 2 hours to overnight before serving.

Serve with crackers or tortilla chips.

Held outdoors, rain or shine, every Wednesday and Saturday from May to November (and indoors, on Saturdays, in winter), the market draws the most crowds on summer Saturdays when vendors set up about 160 booths around four long blocks surrounding Wisconsin’s majestic State Capital building.

If it were made for a movie, the Madison market couldn’t be more perfect.

Locals show up when the market opens at 6 a.m., chefs come around 7 a.m., tourists join the crowd at 10 a.m. and students drag themselves out of bed getting to the market about an hour before it closes at 2 p.m. The array creates a charming cast of thousands who stroll counterclockwise around the booths, interacting as if they were attending one big happy neighborhood party. Street musicians, laughing children and picnickers lounging on the capital’s green grounds add to the Midwest dream scene, but it is the vendors and their products that play starring roles.

Wisconsin farmers man the booths selling their own homegrown seasonal produce and farm-related products (flowers, cheese, honey, maple syrup, jams, breads, etc.).  Although everything for sale is of such high quality as to make one want to move to Madison and become a dedicated locavore, in mid-summer, particularly rave reviews go to the pick of the peak produce: tomatoes, cucumbers and green peppers.

TWO BLOCKBUSTER WAYS TO USE THE BOUNTY

GAZPACHO

Yield: 6 servings.

2 large ripe tomatoes, trimmed and cut into large chunks

4 cups tomato juice

1 large cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into large chunks

1 large green pepper, trimmed and cut into large chunks

1 small onion, peeled and quartered

1 large clove garlic, peeled and put through a press

2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 to 3 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar

Celery salt

Salt

Pepper

Ground cumin (optional)

Croutons, for serving

Working in small batches, put tomatoes in the jar of a blender. Add a little tomato juice and blend until finely chopped, but not pureed. Transfer blended mixture to a large bowl. Repeat blending with cucumber, green pepper and onion. Add any remaining tomato juice, garlic, oil and vinegar to blended mixture in bowl. Sprinkle lightly with celery salt, salt and pepper. Add a little cumin if desired. Stir and taste. Correct seasoning. Refrigerate in a covered container until you are ready to serve. Serve chilled soup with croutons.

GREEK SALAD

Yield: 6 servings.

4 large ripe tomatoes

2 slender cucumbers

2 green peppers

4 scallions

About 1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese

About 1/3 cup pitted kalamata olives

1-1/2 teaspoons dried oregano

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 large clove garlic, peeled

Trim tomatoes and cut into bite-size chunks.

Trim ends from cucumbers. (If the cucumber skin is tough, peel it. Young slender cucumbers do not need peeling.) Halve cucumbers and remove seeds. Cut cucumbers into bite-size chunks.

Trim peppers and cut into bite-size chunks.

Trim scallions and cut white part into 1/4-inch pieces.

Put all cut vegetables in a large bowl.

Add feta and olives. Sprinkle with oregano. Toss lightly.

Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Meanwhile make dressing: Combine olive oil, lemon juice and salt in a small jar. Cut garlic into slivers and add. Set dressing aside until ready to serve.

Just before serving, remove garlic and pour dressing over vegetables. Toss lightly.

Serve.

Not that I expected the contemporary cruise to channel the namesake’s adventure. At least I hoped it wouldn’t.

I was certain that with 75 cabins, a swimming pool, fitness center, two lounges, tiny spa, well-stocked bar and graceful dining room, my cruise ship, the MV Reef Endeavour, would have more comfort than the HMS Endeavour, the navel ship Cook commanded on his first voyage to the area.

MV Reef Endeavour

Also the original Captain Cook described Fijians as ferocious cannibals, and, of course, I was eager not to follow in his footsteps and run into an old-timer who relished historical tradition.

Not to worry on either account.

As its captain Brian Larcombe is fond of saying, “The Reef Endeavour is a 3-1/2 star ship offering a 5-star experience.” Although the ship showed a bit of wear, it was perfectly comfortable and the cruise was terrific, as the smallish ship took us to remote reefs, shallow bays and tiny islands inaccessible to larger ships.

Manava Cay, a Reef Endeavour stop.

As to the Fijians, as if to overcompensate for the bad cannibal rap, they were all exceedingly friendly, warm and welcoming (I am sure Kava had a lot to do with it, but more about Kava later).

Reaching the ship was the most difficult part of the journey. I left LAX with fellow travel writers on a Thursday night at 11:30 p.m. flying Air Pacific for 10-1/2 hours and landing at Nadi International Airport (on Viti Levu, the largest of the 330 Fiji islands and the gateway for air travelers) on a Saturday morning. You will note that Friday disappeared. Losing a day is disconcerting under any circumstances, but losing a day in gorgeous Fiji is almost unbearable. Blame it on crossing the International Date Line. Everyone said you’ll make up a day on the way home. But I ask you, would you rather have an extra day in paradise or sitting on a plane returning from a heavenly trip? No contest.

From Nadi, we jumped on a tiny Pacific Sun plane for an hour’s flight over emerald-colored islands and sapphire-tinted water to Matei Airport (recently upgraded from a gravel runway to a paved one—yippee) on Taveuni, the fourth largest island in the archipelago and so lush and green it is known as the Garden Island.

View from a window of a Pacific Sun flight.

We were picked up in a van, driven to a small beach, where we took a glass bottom boat to the Reef Endeavor and settled into cabins.

Nicest cabin (not mine) on the Reef Endeavour, a suite with a bedroom and attached sitting room.

From then on it was smooth sailing. We cruised making frequent excursions, reaching shore by glass-bottom boat and traveling through paved as well as unpaved roads on an open-air bus.

We drove to the Bouma National Heritage Park’s waterfall for swimming and a picnic

And joined locals for a service at the Wairiki Catholic Church on Taveuni.

We stopped at the International Date Line (or where it used to be) for a photo op.

Standing between today and tomorrow.

And visited a Village for a dinner feast.

Kava welcoming ceremony at Naselesele Village

Now I’ll tell you about Kava

Kava, a drink the color of the Mississippi after a mudslide, is narcotic, not alcoholic, and said by Wikipedia to have “sedative” and “anesthetic”  properties. It is the ceremonial drink of Fiji, and guests to villages are expected to bring gifts of Kava root and participate in Kava-drinking ceremonies.

On board we drank, slept, had massages, read, attended  lectures, danced, mingled, took the glass bottom boat for snorkeling and diving, and watched the ever-changing scenery as we cruised by various islands.

We picked up new words, such as BULA, the most commonly heard word on the islands with a variety of meanings ranging from “good morning” to “have a wonderful happy life.”

Ate the freshest of all possible seafood.

Prawns served on the Reef Endeavour

And learned that  Fiji Women dress modestly with knees and top of shoulders covered. Women do not wear pants. Visitors are expected to dress similarly in villages and frequently don sulus (sarongs) to meet the modesty requirements.

Women wear sulus made of colorful fabrics.

All too soon, the cruise was over leaving us with not only great memories, but also new friends of fellow passengers (mostly from Australia and New Zealand), sunburns, seashells and some super recipes.

Which brings me to a particularly delicious rice and fettuccini stuffed pumpkin. I first sampled the pumpkin at a village lovo dinner. As is the tradition, dishes at a lovo feast are wrapped in foil and native plant leaves and buried to bake in an earth-covered “oven.”

Although villagers cooked the pumpkin, the recipe came from the Reef Endeavour’s hospitality manager, Florian Haber. Florian  said that the dish could be baked in a regular oven as well as in an earth oven and that although pumpkins growing on Fiji differ from those in the United States, any edible pumpkin would work in the recipe.

Florian Haber serving Stuffed Pumpkin

STUFFED PUMPKIN

How to make rice and fettuccini stuffed pumpkin according to Florian Haber:

Get a smallish pumpkin and cut a star-shaped a hole in the top, but save the top as you’ll want to bake the pumpkin with the top on. Hollow the pumpkin, removing all seeds and fibers.

Combine an equal amount (enough to almost fill the pumpkin) of cooked rice and cooked fettuccini (halve fettuccini strips). To boost flavor, add some cooked diced vegetables, such as cauliflower, red bell pepper, carrots and corn. Stir gently to combine ingredients. Put half of the mixture in the pumpkin. Pour a generous amount of coconut cream and dairy cream over mixture in pumpkin and stir gently to distribute the liquid. Add the remaining mixture to pumpkin and again pour in equal amounts of cream and coconut cream; stir gently. (The pumpkin should be filled to the top and ingredients should be quite moist but not soggy.)

Put the lid back on the pumpkin. Wrap the entire pumpkin in foil. Set pumpkin on a baking sheet and bake in a preheated 325°F until the pumpkin shell is soft and the rice/fettuccini mixture hot, 2 to 3 hours.

Yield depends on size of pumpkin, but plan on people having seconds and thirds—this dish is that good.

To learn more about Fiji see: http://www.fijime.tv/

CHOCOLATE okay, so I misled about the sophisticated bit; Belgian chocolates are as divine as they come (expensive too). Belgium makes over 172,000 tons of chocolate each year and sells hand-made goodies in over 2000 shops.

WAFFLES—some like them plain, other prefer waffels topped with sweet sauces, fresh fruits and whipped cream. My advice—try them all.

MUSSELS—so very very good, especially consumed with frites and beer. MMmmmmmm!

BEER—over 450 varieties, many served in their own uniquely designed glasses.

SPECULOOS/SPECULAAS— crunchy, buttery, spice cookies, often sold shaped as, or stamped with, images and figures. Try to find speculass ice cream—a vanilla treat enhanced with the cookie.

FRITES—served with mayonnaise—yes, rich, thick, calorie-packed mayonnaise.

The secret to making extra crispy fries such as those served in Belgium is to fry the potatoes twice. Here’s how to make Belgian frites at home:

CRISPY FRIES

1.     Peel potatoes and cut into sticks.

2.    Soak potatoes in ice water for about 30 minutes, drain and pat really dry with paper towels.

3.    Heat oil in a deep-fryer to 325 degrees, add potatoes and fry until cooked through, but not brown. Drain well and put in a paper bag or a paper-towel lined dish –close top of bag or cover dish with foil. At this point you can let the potatoes sit for 10 minutes to several hours before the next frying.

4.    Before serving, heat oil in the deep fryer to 365 to 375 degrees, add cooked potatoes and fry until they are nicely browned. Drain well on paper towels, sprinkle with salt and serve immediately.

For more information on Belgium, see: www.visitbelgium.com